Posts: 29,152
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2002
While you are supposed to use fine threads I imagine you have yet to find any longer than 1 1/2"
so my advice holds. use the longest screws available or make more substantial joinery
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
Posts: 1,382
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2009
Randy C said:
I wanted to make the table look nice and not have exposed screws.
Another option is to counter set the screws and use a tapered plug cutter to cut plugs out of matching wood to hide the screws.
Posts: 1,993
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2004
Randy C said:
I thought you were supposed to use fine screws with hardwood??
That is what they say. But I find coarse thread screws work just as well, if not better, in oak and soft maple. The deeper threads strip out less often than the fine threads.
They told me anybody could do it, but I showed them.
Posts: 2,819
Threads: 1
Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Eagle River Alaska
The only reason Kreg recommends fine threads in hardwood is to reduce the chance of splitting. In a pinch I've use anything on hand....no problem.
You're just putting a screw in a angled drill hole. If you think you going to have problems with splinting predrill after camping the joint together.
Alaskan's for Global Warming
Eagle River AK
Posts: 1,405
Threads: 24
Joined: Aug 2001
None! Use M&T joints you slacker!!
Dumber than I appear
Posts: 13,842
Threads: 0
Joined: Jun 2001
Randy C said:
I thought you were supposed to use fine screws with hardwood??
+1 ......... that is what they suggest, course screws for softwood and plywood. I used course galvinized screws for the one I built for my Green Egg but used 1 X pressure treated and then stained it. It is still standing strong after almost 15 years.
Steve
