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Started to post in the Endurovar thread, but decided this deserves its own.
I just learned that DNA will destroy Polycrylic in a heartbeat.
Fortunately, my lesson was painless, but it's good to know.
Carolyn
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How many coats?
How long had it cured?
How long was alcohol in contact with surface?
I'd like to add the information to my notes as I research finishing options.
It is my understanding (after lots of reading for upcoming projects) that Minwax polycrylic (or any polycrylic -- which is an acrylic with a dash of urethene added) aren't the best topcoats for high durability. OK for trimwork, cabinet sides but not areas that get splashed or cleaned with solvents like a counter top or cabinet doors in a kitchen.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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That would have surprised me...thanks for the info.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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Alcohol (isopropyl, too) softens acrylic.
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I posted some test results on several finishes over the past 2 or 3 years. I thought I mentioned that DNA doesn't play nice with Polycrylic (and GF's HP Poly), but maybe not. Lacquer thinner kills it even faster, as well as 409 and Windex. The number of coats and cure time is irrelevant.
If you want high chemical durability consider GF's Enduro Clear Poly (spray only), EnduroVar (even better and brush or spray), or oil based Arm-R-Seal. Not much of anything bothers EnduroVar or ARS.
John
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jteneyck said:
Not much of anything bothers EnduroVar or ARS.
John
Good to know I have a few small bar toppers I need to finish. I was going to use Minwax Poly ,now I'll use ARS.
Failure is simply the opportunity to begin again, this time more intelligently. "HF"
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Three coats had cured about a year. I was getting tape adhesive off a scrap, so used DNA full-strength.
Is there a non-yellowing durable WB that can be brushed over paint?
Carolyn
Trip Blog for Twelve Countries: [url=http://www.woodworkingtraveler.wordpress.com[/url]
"It's good to know, but it's better to understand." Auze Jackson
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MsNomer said:
Is there a non-yellowing durable WB that can be brushed over paint?
I don't know for sure how it will age, but I recently had a surprisingly good experience using just the base (no pigment added) of the Behr water based exterior paint from HD. It's the deep color base that doesn't add white.
I painted it over many colors of other water based paint, and as I applied it it looked ghastly: like very poorly covering white paint, exacerbated by my poor brush technique. But it dried absolutely clear. You could only tell it was on half of a test piece because that side was slightly more glossy than the other side. No colors were noticeably modified at all.
If it is durable, this will be very nice. I also tried some directly on cedar, and it looks good now. We'll see how it holds up.
I got the idea
here but used water based paint base rather than the recommended oil base.
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It does.
I spray shellac as a base coat, and the polycrylic as top coat.
I use the shellac as a sealer coat so grain isnt raised and since it dries so fast I can spray 30-40 urns and by the time they are done I can go right to poly.....but if I do less, especially in winter, I have to wait about 20 minutes to be certain it dry....poly doesn't like the shellac if its not completely dry.
Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)
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MsNomer said:
Is there a non-yellowing durable WB that can be brushed over paint?
Have you check out GF Enduro? Its pricey....never used it. Everything I have read about it is amazing. Planning on using it when we redo our kitchen cabinets.....
What about the polycrylic? Never brushed it, but I would think it would work over paint....
Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)
