Library shelves

[srv52761]

Pins are easy and more than sufficient. Almost all our school libraries used pins. Some like these

with at least the back with a screw

Some the plastic like these

Even the plastic ones held up. (see caveat below)
The maintenance director required the shelves be anti-tip.

The librarians liked the plastic ones better, as they were easier for the librarians to change shelving height themselves. With the metal ones they inevitably called for custodial help to remove the screws.
The plastic ones sometimes broke when they removed the shelving to change heights, but they had a box of them as spares, and were easily replaced. In use, there were no failures. So buy an extra box of clips to keep on hand.

Shelves were usually about 30" long.
(edit to add bold)

[rudedan60]

I have salvaged several bookcases that were thrown out at a federal office building. The shelf pin is a 1" long 1/4" threaded rod. There is a V-groove cut in the shelf to capture the pin. I've put a lot of weight on these shelves after reassembling and they have held up great. I make my own replacement pins from 1/4" threaded bolts, which is cheaper to buy than threaded rod. Dan

[Cooler]

iublue said:

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I am going to be making some shelving units for a library. They want adjustable shelves. I am not comfortable using pins because of the weight factor loaded with books. Thought about routing a groove and using shelf standards like these.

http://www.rockler.com/brass-shelf-stand...ect-length

Do they make a heavier duty version without going the commercial route?

Any other options?

TIA

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This hardware is super fast to install compared with drilling holes for pins. I used a dado head to make the grooves but a router would work fine.

Remember, this is not fine furniture. It is utilitarian furniture that you should try to make look nice. It has to have robust construction and super-durable finishes. And it should be designed for efficient construction.

Dadoes and glue, when you are building several units, is a faster and stronger construction method than pocket screws and glue.

[srv52761]

You should also check with the school's insurance carrier. In our schools not only the bookcases had to be anti-tip, but so did the individual shelves. This might make a difference wrt the method you choose.

[Mark A Smith]

iublue said:

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I am going to be making some shelving units for a library. They want adjustable shelves. I am not comfortable using pins because of the weight factor loaded with books. Thought about routing a groove and using shelf standards like these.

http://www.rockler.com/brass-shelf-stand...ect-length

Do they make a heavier duty version without going the commercial route?

Any other options?

TIA

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So maybe an obvious question, but, if it is a library it must already have shelves, yes? Any of those adjustable? If so, what was used?

The rockler style are ones I've used a number of times, both surface mounted and in a dado. They will tip, I suppose, though my shelves fit tightly enough they never have.

Pins? I have those, too. Unless you have just a few shelves to build, that's a lot of holes to drill. They will also fail the tip test (unless you use the L shaped ones with screws). They look neater, but unless they are special display shelves, neater probably isn't an important factor.

I have used the L shaped pins as illustrated above. They give some security over pins falling out which is why I chose them. No screws holding my shelves down.

Seems the first issue is what is required about tipping. Seeing what they already have might help you get to a final decision.

[iublue]

srv52761 said:

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You should also check with the school's insurance carrier. In our schools not only the bookcases had to be anti-tip, but so did the individual shelves. This might make a difference wrt the method you choose.

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These are for a private home library.

[AHill]

Does the customer have a preference? The Rockler version is quicker, but to me, it's not as pretty as shelves with traditional shelf pins. My home library shelves are store-bought (prior to my WW hobby). They have metal shelf pins and some individual shelves have at least 50-75 lbs of books on them with zero issues.

[Mark A Smith]

iublue said:

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These are for a private home library.

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What will you be making them out of?

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

I built a 10 wide by 9' tall bookcase unit a couple years ago. I used the "L" shaped pins because they had more surface area for the shelf to rest on compared to the push in pins that basically come straight out.

If overall strength takes precidence, I would probably use the brackets you listed. This would also be quicker with less chance your shelves may be off when it's all said and done.

More importantly, I know Admiral recommended adding a solid wood strip to the front edge of a plywood shelf. I would also add a hardwood strip to the backside of each shelf as well. This will really add a lot of strength. You could biscuit this one easily and then clean it up with a flush trim bearing router bit. That's how I did mine.

If it were me, I wouldn't think twice about using anything but plywood for the shelves. It's flat, square and ready to roll. It will most likely be cheaper too. The solid wood stripes on the front edge will be seen and the ply will mostly be covered with books.

A couple other suggestions. I would add levers to the each case and I would also consider using "L" style brackets to attach the top of the bookcase to the wall if they have any height to them.

For finish, I'd use something that dries fast if you have a lot of surface area to cover. A relatively hard finish would be a bonus so the heavy books don't leave any "foot prints".

[Cooler]

Regardless of the finish, allow it time to fully cure (about 200 hours) before delivering. I am reminded of a desk I built with a poly finish. I put my computer on the desktop 48 hours after the final coat of poly, and the constant pressure of the computer's feet has left foot prints on the finish.