Quick Question - Hand Planes

[Zhent]

Hi everyone,

I've been trying to find an answer on this question but it's eluding me - I know that there are a few versions of the Stanley frogs depending on the manufacturing date of the plane in question. However, is there any difference in the frog size / dimensions between a #4 or #5 that were produced in the same time period?

I've accidentally damaged the frog on on my #5 and am wondering how exact I need to be when finding a replacement - does any frog that has the same look work?

Thanks!

[Rob Young]

More than likely if you get one of the same type or a close type, it should fit.  Look at one of the type studies because they say when a major change was made.  If it doesn't mention a change in the frog from say Type 11 to 13, then there is a good chance they are interchangeable.

[Admiral]

Sending you a PM......

[Zhent]

Another quick question!

I'm re-assembling a No. 4 that I have been working on restoring, and I'm having difficulty getting the blade and cap iron to retract enough so that they don't project out the mouth of the plane. Here is a photo that may help illustrate the problem:



I'm screwed all the way in on the height adjuster, and the iron is still way out of the blade.

[Bill_Houghton]

Where is the cap iron set in relation to the edge of the cutting iron?  It should be a tiny distance back.  If it is, and you're getting this problem, you've probably got the wrong cap iron for the plane.

[JimReed@Tallahassee]

The blade and cap iron go together so the blade will be bevel down. The cap iron should be about 1/16" above the cutting edge of the iron. Its purpose is to deflect the shaving and make it curl. On Stanley planes, this distance is critical because the cap iron has a square hole that seats on the adjuster which protrudes through the slot in the blade. As noted, not all cap irons are the same. Make sure you have a Stanley, preferably the one that was originally attached to the plane.

Make sure the blade and cap iron are matched OK and the screw is tightened to hold them together. Make sure there is only a scant 1/16" or 1/8" of the blade exposed. Then check to see that the blade assembly is fully seated on the frog. It should be flat with no gaps. The adjuster should protrude through the blade slot and should engage in the square hole on the cap iron.

Hope this helps. Post a better picture if you can.

[rwe2156]

I've had this happen before and found out I had the wrong blade and/or cap iron.
 
If you have to pull the cap iron way back to get it to work, then its definitely the wrong parts.

[Admiral]

I've had this happen before and found out I had the wrong blade and/or cap iron.
 
If you have to pull the cap iron way back to get it to work, then its definitely the wrong parts.

This ^^^^

or, more rare defect, and I mean I've only had one or two like this in the last 25 years, is a bent or worn yoke assembly that fits into the square hole of the lever cap.

[MichaelMouse]

I've had this happen before and found out I had the wrong blade and/or cap iron.
 
If you have to pull the cap iron way back to get it to work, then its definitely the wrong parts.

BTDT - bought one of the thick replacement blades.  With a user and a Hock blade I ran out of frog room quick.  Got out the file and opened the mouth enough to pass a shaving.

[thedanielmatt]

I think you should be able to adjust the frog forward/backwards. I know not all of them are, but wanted to throw it out there.