want to slow down some shellac

[Rob Young]

Thank you again for answers, found the equipment on the link above, and although I do not have the compressor to run latex, will take up a conversation with Todd about a turbine system.  Was really intrigued with the clear cups and the bag liners  Seemed like something I could leave a bit of shellac in between coats and toss in the refrigerator.

Not sure how much latex I will ever really spray, but it sure sounds nice next time the wifey decides she does not like the paint color in the house. And hour of taping off and $10 in drop clothes sounds nice.

Keep in mind that under-gun turbine systems aren't really suited to spraying latex wall paint.  That stuff can be very thick.  You can add pressure pots to increase your spray time and add a small air compressor to assist.  But in the end, wall paint is better applied with an airless (pump) system.

That said, I've read about people using a turbine to do the cutting in at the ceiling because the resulting pattern more closely resembles that from a roller.  Then they roll the rest of the wall.

Acrylic latex enamel, on the other hand, can be easily sprayed with a turbine.  I've done a couple of outdoor chairs and an ottoman for the deck.  Worked great for both the primer and the paint.  Did require just a bit of minimal thinning as I don't have a tip greater than 1.8mm.

The clear bags I refer to are not sealable.  They are intended only as liners.  However the 3M PPS cup/liner system can be adapted to nearly any turbine gun that also has a pressure pick-off for the cup.  I have not tried this.  

With a turbine I've sprayed clear finishes such as 3# down to 1# shellac, waterborne polyurethenes, BIN primer, GF Milk Paint (acrylic paint), acrylic latex enamel and had no problems.  I'm working my way up to a large enough project that it would make sense to spray a dye.

The Earlex 5500 is a 2 stage, the A401 is a 4 stage.  A little more than 2psi & 60cfm vs a little more than 8psi and 100cfm.  More turbine blades increase both the pressure AND cubic feet per minute of air moved.  This means less thinning and the ability to use a smaller needle/nozzle for the same viscosity and (in theory) better atomization.  Both are pressurized under-gun cups and both are bleeder style guns.  Cleanup should be about the same for both.  Whatever gun you get, extra parts like gaskets and pressure tubes/check valves is a must.

[arw01]

I may be better to change my compressor to something a bit bigger, so many choices in this and hard to tell when you have never sprayed any finish besides a rattle can to see what you might have success with.

Todd indicated I needed about 2x my compressor volume to get into the gun discussed up above, which makes one think about a turbine system and then you wonder do I need to spend $600 or $1500.

[Rob Young]

I may be better to change my compressor to something a bit bigger, so many choices in this and hard to tell when you have never sprayed any finish besides a rattle can to see what you might have success with.

Todd indicated I needed about 2x my compressor volume to get into the gun discussed up above, which makes one think about a turbine system and then you wonder do I need to spend $600 or $1500.

I decided to go with a turbine system because after much thought, I didn't feel that my future project list would benefit from the purchase of a larger compressor (I have a small one that is capable of running a 23 and 18ga pinners).  I've stopped working on cars and I just couldn't see the need to switch over to other air powered tools.

For about the same money as I would spend on a conversion gun + good compressor + air accessories I could purchase a nice 4 stage system.  While a turbine system isn't the ideal for painting interior surfaces, I do have on my long term list to replace kitchen cabinets but I've also though about a basic refinish job on them.  Likewise, the previous owner of my house put in cabinets in the basement rec-room but they have a pickled finish which I don't like.  Those I would probably just paint.  A turbine system and some creative masking would let me work in-situ.

You need to think about what your future needs might be before making a decision.  Then do the research on the types of finishes you expect to use and from those two things you can pick out a system that works for you at a price you can live with.