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Brother asked if I could make him a vanity out of reclaimed lumber. I've never used the stuff. It should be a simple project but I'm not sure how you're supposed to reference tools to it considering there are no flat or square sides. I was hoping to just use loose tenons (festool dominos). Any tips would be appreciated. thanks
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What *size* is the reclaimed? Just joint and surface it back to square.
Steve
Mo.
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The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
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09-11-2016, 12:26 AM
(This post was last modified: 09-11-2016, 12:44 AM by Bob10.)
I can't remember how many things I have made out of reclaimed church pews. 2 sets of cabinets that I am making now are from that stack of lumber. I think I picked up 9 or 11 all oak got me lots of strange looks when I brought them home but so what. I have used it to make transitions for flooring too, plenty hard enough for the task. Joint or plane it to what you need leave one side looking worn if that is the look you are going for. This one is partially finished needed it to figure out placement for electrical coming up through the counter and to get an idea of what the finished look would be. Doors are still getting final coats of finish adding molding to top attaching that to wall above back splash adding something akin to base molding to the bottom with an out let facing the right hand side. No idea what they were thinking with almost 10' of vanity and the only outlet on the far left wall
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Yep, what they ^^^ said. Make a surface and joint then go for it.
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Treat it as you would rough-cut, unless, for some strange reason, they're looking to have a piece of furniture that looks weathered. Then make your unseen joinery pieces smooth to fit tightly, and leave the outside surfaces cruddy.
Depending on your source - indoor or outdoor lumber, it might be worth looking at a thickness sander for the initial passes. Wire brush will do for a lot of grit if not.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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Just treat it like rough lumber literally, including expecting to find screws, nails and other jointer/planer threats. Metal detector is your friend
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09-11-2016, 02:31 PM
(This post was last modified: 09-11-2016, 03:01 PM by sawdust703.)
working with refurbished lumber can have several benefits to your project, but can create set backs too. As a scroll sawyer, & I use quite a bit of refurbished lumber in my projects. Especially if they are farm scenes, farm equipment, their prize bull, dream catchers, picture frames, etc. Folks will bring me lumber from a grainery, or barn, or other sentimental value piece that was torn down on their property, & want their project made exclusively from that lumber.
I have some Southern Yellow Pine a farmer gave me from a grainery they tore down on their farm that his Grandfather built. I made him a Farmers Plaque & a 4 WD JD tractor with some of it. I finished it w/shellac & lacquer. It really made the grain pop. Now, before any barkin' starts about pictures, I've got a FB page with my projects on it. I'm not sure if the tractor is on there. There is one I done in 1/2" oak on it.
If you're going to use it for projects that need squared & jointed, make completely sure there are no nails or screws in it anywhere! And pay special attention to knots. You may have to glue one or two. Joint both edges, & one face. You can run it through the planer then. Take light cuts at the planer bcause the older the wood, the more brittle it's going to be. It could explode in the planer. Yes! Explode! I've had it happen! Once you get your dimensional size worked, then you can do whatever you want to do with it, keeping in mind its refurbished lumber.
I would do most of your sanding right off the planer, if possible. Reason being that refurbished lumber can be kinda temperamental. Once your project pieces have been cut, try & do your finish sanding after you dry fit everything. That way, once you glue, nail or screw it together, you can start your finish work.
Refurbished lumber can be better lumber to work with, at times, than new lumber. Other times, it's like working with a handful of toothpicks! If the wood has come from inside an old house, or building, the wood will be full dimensions, stronger, & better wood. If its barn wood, you may have to pick through it to get decent wood. Just keep your eyes & mind open to the fact that there may be a nail, or who knows what in it. Good luck, & God bless.
Sawdust703
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(09-11-2016, 02:31 PM)sawdust703 Wrote: Just keep your eyes & mind open to the fact that there may WILL be a nail, or who knows what in it. Good luck, & God bless.
Wire brush and a good metal detector or strong magnet might find most of the metal, but you can never be sure.
Neat stuff sometimes, but be careful!
Or get good at changing knives
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(09-11-2016, 04:07 PM)Wild Turkey Wrote: Wire brush and a good metal detector or strong magnet might find most of the metal, but you can never be sure.
Neat stuff sometimes, but be careful!
Or get good at changing knives
Sixty grit fears no fastener. Nice to have that thickness sander.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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(09-10-2016, 11:22 PM)Juss1 Wrote: Brother asked if I could make him a vanity out of reclaimed lumber. I've never used the stuff. It should be a simple project but I'm not sure how you're supposed to reference tools to it considering there are no flat or square sides. I was hoping to just use loose tenons (festool dominos). Any tips would be appreciated. thanks
my best tip i can give is to not start a project with " it should be a simple project..."
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