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I'd use a flush cut saw to cut up along each stile, a coping saw to take a couple inches off each end and a hand plane. Likely be finished before you clean up after a router or jigsaw.
Blackhat
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Last time I did one, I used a circular saw (in situ) and finished with a Dozuki. Of course, I used straight edge. Didn't worry about the pocket hole screws, but I did remove the ones I knew were in the way. I don't think I hit the rest of them. Its been a while.
The circ saw leaves a good finished edge and is way quicker than a router.
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(09-22-2016, 05:03 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: Probably risky skill sawing the rail completely out, due to possible metal. Pocket screws perhaps, or brads.
Yeah, you gotta know if there are any in the way. There were pocket screws on mine.
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It's easier, and perhaps cheaper just to buy a new fridge
Macky
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(09-22-2016, 07:41 AM)Imakmst© Wrote: I have custom hickory cabinets in my kitchen from 24 yrs ago. The cabinets have a 70" tall opening for the refrigerator. I had to replace my very old refrigerator and the one that LOML had to have was exactly 70" tall and the new frig will not physically go back into the opening. Period, won't go.
I'm going to zip off 5/16" or so of that rail for clearance and scoot it on back.
Using the appropriate clamping straight edge:
Would you use a fine blade and the Bosch jig saw (which I own)?
...
I'd tape the face of it, install a straight edge to guide your Bosch jig saw, but I'd definitely use a down cutting bit,
like they use for countertop openings.
That way, the teeth of the blade won't splinter your finished front edge.
But be advised, you have to push down on the saw, as the blade will be trying to push it away from the work.
It will be a near perfect cut using this method.
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do you need to cut it all the way across or only to clear the hinge mounts?
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all the way from stile to stile
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Turn off the orbital function if you use those blades.
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