Need advice on how to do something

[MsNomer]

Remember that whatever you do, the result will not be in-your-face noticeable, so don't sweat it too much. A boo boo can easily be hidden.

[Steve N]

Probably risky skill sawing the rail completely out, due to possible metal.  Pocket screws perhaps, or brads.

Now your gonna tell me that little nugget, hmmmmph

[Stwood_]

Well....ah.....now ah......maybe.......hey what size bandage do ya need there?

[Cecil]

For that type of work, I prefer hand tools. I have a short one, specifically for the one-off, unique location situations you describe. Someone mentioned the possibility of hitting metal. I buy a cheap one, so that I do not fret the metal.



If I had to make a plunge cut to start, I would use a multi tool to do the plunge cut.  However, I like the control of a pull saw.  Besides, for single cut applications, it is often faster than setting up for power tool usage.

[mdhills]

I see that and think "stair saw" (or veneer saw or japanese azebiki saw).
Set up your straightedge, and start with a light score and then keep going...


Matt

[Phil Thien]

Any chance you'll run into steel fasteners during this process?  Maybe where the rail meets the stiles?

I know on my commercial (Wood-Mode) cabinets, I'd run into a couple of those corrugated fasteners they use (which suck BTW).

I'd use a router, and wear safety goggles.

I'd make a few light passes with a final clean-up pass.

I'd have an extra bit or two handy in case I run into fasteners.

Or just tell the wife that her dream refrigerator will just have to continue as a dream.

[1948beech]

I saw the message about turning down the factory fitted legs and your response that you had done everything possible to the fridge.

Does that include removeing the legs completely.  Often the leg stubs occupy a good 1/2 inch and if so your fridge would slide under the cabinets.

If no then I would choose a router, a 1/4 inch one with upto 900 watts power, and approach it like cutting a deep rebate.   Then finish off with a small japanese saw/chisel.

[Stwood_]

Any chance you'll run into steel fasteners during this process?  Maybe where the rail meets the stiles?

I take it you haven't read the whole thread?

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

I'd use a laminate or trim router with double sided carpet tape for the straight edge.  Spiral bit with bearing if you have it or make due with a straight bit and bearing.  I wouldn't use Irwin or any other quick clamp with the pads.  They slip entirely too easy.  I'd try small Jorgy F clamps if you have them with small wood blocks on the back.  Enlist a friend to keep a shop vac nozzle nearby if you are comfortable doing so.  If you don't have a trim router, try to borrow one.  The router bit will give you the cleanest cut and surface.  Bottom line, you have to feel physically comfortable with whatever you do in regards to safety.

[Imakmst©]

thanks to all who gave the great advice.  It played out like this:

Pulled refrigerator out of whole and unloaded cabinet contents above. took off doors and bottom hinges for access to face frame and such.  this is when more detail was seen in how the installer had done his job.  so, the entire section was able to be taken out and I was able to lay the case down on its back.  Using a Bora straight edge clamp, and a Bosch jigsaw with a T101B 12 TPI blade, I cut to the line, then using the PC 893 and a down cut spiral bit, I cleaned the cut and chiseled the corners (no pocket screws, M&T only).  Actually my first experience with hickory. Quite hard stock that stuff.  I stained the raw edge and re-installed the case and tada, nice fitting refrigerator.

Wife still thinks I'm the man.  woohoo.