Irwin and Oldham 10" Saw Blades

[knotscott]

The new Irwin Marples series is pretty good....made in Italy, and on par with the Freud Diablo series for value.  Great for home woodworkers and pros alike

The Irwin Marathon and Classic series are not overly suitable for woodworking IMO....pretty run of the mill, mediocre cheap Chinese junk....same goes for the current Oldham contractor blades (things change...the Oldham Signature series was pretty decent, but is no longer marketed).  These might be ok for construction/framing type work, but they won't perform all that well, won't stay shape long, and aren't worth having resharpened IMO. Seriously, the Oldham Contractor blade was among the most disappointing blades I've encountered yet.

$30-$40 will buy you a very good Freud Diablo or Irwin Marples blade. I don't see much point in spending the same amount on two inferior blades. If you have a remotely decent table saw setup, give it a fighting chance with a decent blade.

[toolmiser]

Since we are on the "blade subject", I've never had a true "rip blade" and I think I would like to have one available.  Any body have any suggestions?  It will be for occasional use, probably full kerf, I sometimes get into some 2+ inch oak and walnut.  My 1939 unisaw isn't really powerful, but gets the job done.  I would like to have something around that isn't real expensive.  If you can convince me I need a thin kerf I might be interested also.

Thanks for your input.

[knotscott]

Since we are on the "blade subject", I've never had a true "rip blade" and I think I would like to have one available.  Any body have any suggestions?  It will be for occasional use, probably full kerf, I sometimes get into some 2+ inch oak and walnut.  My 1939 unisaw isn't really powerful, but gets the job done.  I would like to have something around that isn't real expensive.  If you can convince me I need a thin kerf I might be interested also.

Thanks for your input.

You certainly don't "need" thin kerf per se, but it will decrease the resistance to your saw on thicker rips quite a bit.  A 1/8" full kerf blade is 33% wider than a 3/32" thin kerf blade, and requires proportionately less power.  The better thin kerfs will perform extremely well, and it just so happens that the Irwin Marples and Freud Diablo 24T TK rippers are among the better values at < $30.  Other excellent choices would be the Infinity 010-124, Freud Industrial LU87, CMT Industrial or Forrest.  If you have your heart set on full kerf, there's a Delta Industrial 35-611 18T made in Germany by Leitz on closeout through Cripe Distribution.

[texaswally]

One other thing about most rip blades is they have a Flat-Top-Grind (FTG) which makes them the go-to for making flat bottomed grooves and rabbets.

[Redman]

Thanks for you input Knotscott. Another place one person gave negative indications on the Irwin blades but never offered any information about the series blade.

[GNP]

You won't go wrong, with Scott's recommendations.

[gMike]

I have to throw my $0.02 worth in here.  I just bought a Forrest Woodworker II thin-kerf saw blade and can't say enough good about it.  It really gave my old Crapsman contractor saw new life.  Sometimes it makes one wonder why they waited so long to step up to a really good blade.  They don't give them away but it certainly seems to be worth the bucks!

[Stwood_]

So cuz, what are you going with?

[Redman]

Probably get another Freud. I need to look around for that Irwin Marples maybe too. Probably just use my old Freud blade for a while, I'm not trying to produce glue line rips.

[knotscott]

Probably get another Freud. I need to look around for that Irwin Marples maybe too. Probably just use my old Freud blade for a while, I'm not trying to produce glue line rips.

Lowes has the Irwin Marples line.  Be sure your old Freud blade is at least clean....really makes a difference.