Posts: 13,412
Threads: 0
Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Texas
An impact wrench, if it will fit, will get it loose.
On the pulley side, you can use a pipe wrench "carefully" on the HUB of the pulley to hold it. Careful not to engage the teeth of the pipe wrench on the set screws. It has a key so it will take the torque just fine unless for some reason it needs hundreds of pounds to get it free. You can use a piece of tape wrapped around the hub a few times to help protect it from the teeth.
Put a drop of oil on the threads before re- installing the nut and torque it only about 5 lbs or less.
Posts: 1,997
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2016
(10-13-2016, 09:37 AM)Pirate Wrote: Are you giving the arbor nut wrench a good whack with a 2x4?
This the way I would try first. Works like a impact wrench. Roly
Posts: 20,381
Threads: 4
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: CinDay
First a shot or 3 of some type of parts breaker. I like Kroil the best. Take a 2x4 and lay it flat on the table and push it into the teeth of the blade. Use a long wrench, or socket. I like a long socket, with a pipe over the handle to get a lot of that old fulcrum point going on, and just pull steadily.
After you get it off, pay attention to what Mac said about hand tight, or just a small amount of snug with a wrench, works fine.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
Posts: 12,603
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Wapakoneta, OH
Bill, did any of this help and did you get the nut off? Just curious.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Posts: 16,604
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2002
Location: Ra-cha-cha, NY
10-14-2016, 08:47 AM
(This post was last modified: 10-14-2016, 08:50 AM by TDKPE.)
(10-12-2016, 06:22 PM)Bill Stark Wrote: Purchased a Craftsman 10” table saw, Model 315.228410, in October 1999 and have never had a problem with it until yesterday. Put on a new blade and did a few cuts and then went to change the blade to my 8” dado blade.
On this model, there is one arbor nut that locks the blade into place. On the other side of the blade is a tapered washer (for lack of better words) that is permanently affixed to the arbor shaft. In short, the arbor nut is threaded onto the shaft until the blade fits tightly between the tapered washer and the arbor nut.
Sounds like the nut has bottomed out on the end of the thread. I've never seen an arbor that didn't use a similar flared washer on the nut side, so it sounds like you're missing something.
Here ya go. Figure "I", item "15". Less than $5.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-nu...44600.html
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
Posts: 1,997
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2016
Good catch TDKPE, about the missing outside washer.
Posts: 5
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2009
10-14-2016, 12:03 PM
(This post was last modified: 10-14-2016, 12:06 PM by Bill Stark.)
Thanks, Clamp worked. Great idea! Will also not over tighten as suggested in another post. I'm guilty of that. Thanks again!
Thanks
Posts: 5
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2009
Not exactly sure how woodnet works, but want to thank everyone who offered suggestions on loosening the arbor nut on my tablesaw. I appreciated everyone's suggestions as well as the time spend to respond. The suggestion to clamp the pulley's drive belt together seemed to be the KISS of all and so I tried it first, and it WORKED! Hallelujah!!!!! Thanks again for everyone's assistance and I'll be careful not to tighten the nut too much although I believe the problem had more to do with ultra thin blade I used (for the first time). I don't recall ultra thin blades being available in 1999 when the saw was purchased or designed.
Posts: 13,411
Threads: 4
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: New Jersey
Been watching this, glad it worked out for you. Saw on!
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
