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I am looking to purchase an above average 10" Thin Kerf Rip Blade for my table saw. Since I have a Radial Arm Saw and a Sliding Miter Saw, all my crosscutting is done with these 2 saws, so basically my table saw is used primarily for ripping stock. I currently have a combination blade on their now, and it does a decent job with my rip cuts, but I would like to put a really good dedicated rip blade on the saw. I know the obvious choice is to buy a Forrest WW II blade, however they go for over $100. Most of the stock I cut is usually pine, but recently I have been cutting more hardwoods, like Maple and Walnut. Any suggestions?
Scott
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Actually, the WWII wouldn't be my first choice for dedicated ripping. I have one in the 30 tooth configuration and it does really well, but still not as good as the
Freud LM75. and it's only $48 at that link.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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How thick is the stock that you usually are ripping? For 1" and thinner I've been happy with this blade,
https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Blade...e+line+rip
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10-21-2016, 08:32 AM
(This post was last modified: 10-21-2016, 08:40 AM by smoothjazz27.)
Most of the stock I rip is 1" and under.
Thanks!! That's a great price for that blade
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I have this one, it is one level down from there glue line rib blade, but leaves a perfect edge and is rated very good for cross cutting. I can attest to that.
https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Rippi...+saw+blade
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. RMB
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"There is no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid people"
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I have a 24 tooth Freud thin kerf rip blade and I like it. I am a fan of Freud blades, good value for the money.
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My 2 fav's:
Freud LM74 (30 tooth) for hardwoods
CMT 201 (24 tooth) for softwoods
BTW - a TS is so much more than a ripping machine. I think you are missing a lot of what they can do.
For example, a xcut sled on the TS overall will give more accurate and better quality xcuts than either a MS or RAS. Miters, too.
I view my MS and RAS as rough cutting machines, not for final dimensioning.
Give it a try!
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(10-21-2016, 06:25 PM)MikeBob Wrote: I have this one, it is one level down from there glue line rib blade, but leaves a perfect edge and is rated very good for cross cutting. I can attest to that.
https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Rippi...+saw+blade
Can't go wrong with this one!
Al
I turn, therefore I am!
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I have an older Freud full kerf 24 tooth ripping blade. I wouldn't call the rips glue-up ready but they're pretty good and probably could be glued up straight off the saw with good results. One thing I found useful was the flat tooth grind (FTG). If you need narrow grooves or slots, an FTG will produce a flat bottom, the more common alternate top bevel (ATB) ground blades will leave small ridges.
