It is never too late -- SawStop

[meackerman]

"Go get a Sawstop ASAP."


If I had an extra $3k laying around that didn't need spent on other things, I might consider it.

[jteneyck]

Sorry to read of your accident. But thanks for being willing to share your story. Every time I read one of these it reminds me to try to stay completely focused whenever I flip the switch on a power tool.

Joe may not have said it, and may not believe it, I don't know, but I believe that blade guards help prevent accidents. Maybe not one where you push your hand into the blade, but definitely ones where you would hit the blade when reaching for something. Mine has saved me on several occasions, of that I am certain.

John

[frigator]

I set up a new shop this summer from scratch and almost bought the SS. I now wish I had bought it, but at the time I had to pay for so many machines I went the cheap route. The good is the 1023 I got does have a riving knife but i took off the guard. For someone like me who doesnt ever use the guard I should have a SS. 

I was watching a video of the Northfield factory tour and noticed their tablesaws had brakes. I always want to reach for the cut off before the blade stops and would love a brake like the Bandsaw. Just dont see them on TSs.

[jteneyck]

Robin, since you didn't buy the SS I recommend you put the guard back on. If there's some reason you don't like it, buy an aftermarket one that you will use, like a Sharkguard, perhaps. Whatever little inconvenience I have with my guard is inconsequential compared to an accident.

John

[Handplanesandmore]

There are occasions when you can't put a guard on as the guard will get in the way: use a cutting sled or ripping thin strips (1/8" e.g.). The Grr-ripper system handles the ripping of strips well and safely, while the SawStop offers added insurance. When a guard can be put on but is not used, the operator is playing Russian roulette and if he is lucky, he can get away with it -- to the very last day of his woodworking life.

SawStop or not, it is a personal choice. Even using a kitchen knife can cause injuries, let alone, a bandsaw, mitersaw, etc. I recall seeing a report that says tablesaws accounted for most woodshop injuries recorded by the emergency room (hence the "1 tablesaw injury every 9 minutes. 10 tablesaw amputations every day" claim).

If I remember correctly, the woodworker who shared his saw accident story also revealed that his injury was not covered by any insurance which just ran out before he had a chance to get one. Really when it rains ...

I am sharing his story not to convince those who have decided not to get a SS (for whatever reason -- it really doesn't concern any of us) to get one, but to alert those who are on the fence and who can afford the SS (different price entry levels) to make up their mind -- the sooner the better.

I have had the saw for more than five years and it has been well used because not only it offers added safety (including reducing/preventing kickbacks) but it also cuts with excellent results. Above all, I really like its overhead dust collection system, the best of all I've used.

Simon

[meackerman]

 it offers added safety (including reducing/preventing kickbacks)

how does it reduce/prevent kickbacks any differently than a non-SS table saw?

That actually has me more interested than the flesh sensing tech, since I've had kickback (caused by me doing something I shouldn't be doing) more than once.

[Handplanesandmore]

"Go get a Sawstop ASAP."


If I had an extra $3k laying around that didn't need spent on other things, I might consider it.

In addition to pawls, the saw comes with a riving knife (NOT a splitter) which is adjustable to align with a saw blade (standard vs thin kerf). Its design is second to none in terms of ease of use. Two riving knives (one attached to the guard and the other by itself) are provided to my saw.

No kickbacks have been experienced with this saw (and only one mild kickback ever happened in my shop as my previous saw fences were set back 1/64" on the rear end).

Simon

[meackerman]

so its not really any different than any other riving knife installed saw.

With my kickbacks, a riving knife (or splitter) wouldn't have helped....the leading edge of the board never got past the far side of the blade before it came flying back at me.

[Handplanesandmore]

Sounds like your fence wasn't set parallel to the blade or when you pushed the stock, the pushing force was not skewed towards the fence. Even a Euro style tablesaw won't help (which has a short fence to prevent kickbacks).

Simon

[meackerman]

basically the latter I skewed the board as I was cutting it.  it was late, I was in a hurry. it was totally my fault, but then again someone putting their hand in the blade is totally their fault too.  There's no reason for it to ever happen.