Really dumb TS Q - multiple angles

[Aram]

I'm going to make a box with a coopered top. I'll need to cut the staves (can I call them that?) at different angles, glue, then hand plane. I'll need a throat plate for safety. Zero clearance would be nice, but maybe I could live without it I guess.

This is kind of a dumb question, how do you avoid having a separate throat plate for each angle? Do you just make a wide enough slot to accommodate the range of angles?

Thanks!

[EdL]

Zero clearance insert is for straight cuts only. Use the wider factory insert.

There is no way to cut the slot for an angle in a zero clearance type insert.

If you tilt the blade, then try to raise it to cut the slot, not going to end well.

Ed

[Guest]

As an alternative to a conventional zero-clearance throat plate, I use a  large piece of thin Masonite (hardboard) and start to rip it with the the blade at the desired angle. Then I stop the saw and clamp the hardboard down. As for the fence, I can raise mine up to ride over the Masonite.

[JGrout]

Zero clearance insert is for straight cuts only. Use the wider factory insert.

There is no way to cut the slot for an angle in a zero clearance type insert.

If you tilt the blade, then try to raise it to cut the slot, not going to end well.

Ed

I have many different angles ZCI's 



It only depends on how you build the plate 

If you want a one off make a relief cut in the back of the insert set the angle and raise the blade through  it once clamped in position 

here it is in use 




Joe

[Paul K. Murphy]

Thanks JGrout. EdL is wrong.
You can fab up zero clearance throats plates if you need them for specialties. Like any specialized tool, they may not have a use outside of their specific intended purpose.
In my way of thinking, the significant questions are: Does my operation require the use of a specialized fixture of any kind? How does my cost/benefit situation look? How versatile (or not versatile) will the fixture be for other operations in the shop?
Some fixtures will get the green light. Other fixtures will fail one or the other of the above tests. Those get the red light.

[Steve N]

Zero clearance insert is for straight cuts only. Use the wider factory insert.

There is no way to cut the slot for an angle in a zero clearance type insert.

If you tilt the blade, then try to raise it to cut the slot, not going to end well.

Ed

I agree with Joe that they are helpful at 90, or any angle. You can easily cut the slot in any ZCI, if you don't have enough clearance at 90* use a 7 1/4" blade, at angle that equation of enough distance starts to diminish, but you can still use the smaller blade, you only need enough projection to go through the ZCI, and it's mostly embedded. Any ZCI I cut is clamped to the table with the rip fence, or actual clamps, depends on how lazy I am, never had any misadventures, and I've cut a slew of them over the years. Unlike Joe I do onesies, he has ones that he slides in a new insert as he needs it. I usually make between 25 and 50 blanks at a time, and then cut them through when I need them.

In this video Matthias shows you how. The entire middle he goes into reinforcing the ends.  No need for that IMHO, but otherwise it's a good video. Try it you'll like it

[Aram]

LIL Thanks everyone.

Just to clarify, I've made lots of ZCI before, even had one dedicated at 45 degrees. I'm just mulling over the best strategy for this one-time variable situation. Thanks for all the info -- I got some great ideas out of this thread.

[JGrout]

I also should mention that if you only want one insert for several angles you can do it although the slot will be slightly wider each time you change the angle rendering it not quite a ZCI after each cut. this is not so much a detriment as the factory plate in the saw is. 

I also might say that most coopered tops I have encountered could be fabricated using maybe two angles with the second one only being in the top center to bring the two halves together if the first angle is off slightly (a fairly typical occurrence)  

HTH 

Joe

[rwe2156]

Yes, EdL is definitely incorrect.  Usiing the factory plate with angle cuts can be very unsafe.

Aram, the best way to do it is have a few plates for different angle ranges.  You don't need a different plate for every angle.  This has worked for me.  Problem trying to use one plate is too wide of an angle range will thin out the material around the slot.  IOW use one plate for 10-20 degree, 20-30, etc.

When you make your ZCI's make a whole bunch of them!

What Steve said about the 7 1/4" blade is true except if you use a full kerf blade you have to take that into account maybe use two of them.

[cvillewood]

Sorry to pile on EdL, but that's simply incorrect.

On all my ZCI's I have to make a relief cut because my blade doesn't go completely below the zci. That relief cut makes it easier to setup for angle zci's too.

If I were you I'd set my arbor at the correct angle then change the blade to outer blade of a dado stack and make the cut deep enough so your 10" blade fits.