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I have a typical brass hose bib with a rubber washer. When hooked up to a hose end sprinkler or similar device, the water flow will diminish or almost shut off after a short time. It may take two or three adjustments to get it to stay flowing as I want it. My theory is that when shut off, the washer is compressed. When turned on, it starts to expand and gradually reduces the flow. I've checked and the screw that holds the washer is tight. I have also replaced the original washer with one that seemed firmer. I've thought about replacing the faucet with a globe valve, but they are more difficult to make fine flow adjustments. Any suggestions?
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Just replace it with what's there probably less than $8 unless it is something fancy. Takes a few minutes buy american if you can
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By any chance is it a Woodward, with the side-by-side arrangement as below? I have to fight with the vacuum break (left side in the pic) every so often to get it to stop blocking flow. I'd just replace the whole thing but it's very hard to get to the connection in the basement, so I just deal with it.
Tom
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TDKPE,
I can't see your image. However, the faucet I'm using has no differences side to side. Just a basic brass faucet that I purchased at Lowes. I found in my cache of faucet washers a very hard one of the correct size. I put one in and, based on a brief test, it seems to help. However, it takes a lot of twist effort to shut it off. I will shop my hardware store for another washer harder than the original but not as hard as the one I just put in. I wasn't aware that washers came in different hardness. Is this a design feature or just differences in manufacture? I'm strongly considering replacing the faucet with a globe valve.
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Valve seat is loose and " floating" in there.
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11-10-2016, 11:10 AM
(This post was last modified: 11-10-2016, 06:23 PM by Willyou.)
Quote:Valve seat is loose and " floating" in there.
Nope. No separate valve seat. It is milled directly into the casting. But, thanks for the suggestion.
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There is insufficient pressure on the spindle for it to retain its position. Easiest fix is a ball valve with male and female hose threads screwed onto the existing hose bibb and then leave it wide open. Use the ball valve for throttling.
Blackhat
Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories.
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Quote:There is insufficient pressure on the spindle for it to retain its position.
That is very interesting, but I'm not sure I fully understand. Could you elaborate a bit. I have several other similar hose bibs around the house and none of them have the problem.
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I meant to say spindle threads. Just as a loose bolt in a vehicle will rattle away until it falls out, so too the spindle or stem of your hose bibb. A properly seated bolt has the threads in compression or tension. The valve stem instead has to rely on pressure from the interference fit of the threads, any grease in them and the friction of the packing seal or O ring. If you wish, swap the stem and packing between this and another hose bibb or replace the packing seal/O ring and pack the threads with stem grease.
Blackhat
Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories.
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(11-11-2016, 03:41 PM)blackhat Wrote: There is insufficient pressure on the spindle for it to retain its position. Easiest fix is a ball valve with male and female hose threads screwed onto the existing hose bibb and then leave it wide open. Use the ball valve for throttling.
Not a ball valve to throttle, a Gate Valve!!!!
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. RMB
The SO asked me today, "what are you going to do to day"? I said "nothing". She said, "that's what you did yesterday"! Me, "Yes love, but I was not finished yet"!!!!!!!!