Drawer bottom question

[Cpl_Eyeball]

Decided to make handcut dovetail drawers and need help in installing drawer bottoms.  Where exactly do I cut the groove for the bottoms?  I have drawn a line showing where I think it should go - is this the right place?  Should in be centered on the tail?  Yes, the dovetails are crappy, but this is only my second try at handcut dovetails.
 

[MikeBob]

I think your DTs look good. I would line it up in the center of the DT if that gives you enough depth in the drawer. Other wise a bit lower, I dont think it would any difference really.

[Alan S]

If these were half-blind dovetails, note that the endgrain of the tails (the part toward us in the photo) would be covered.  In that case, a groove cut for the bottom would not show, so where you mark would be a good choice.  Because these are through dovetails, the groove will show, or be plugged, or if cut as a stopped groove will not show, regardless of position.  So put the groove at the most convenient height for the bottom.

[Cpl_Eyeball]

So running a dado all the way through in the front and back is fine since a false front will cover it anyway?

[Strokes77]

Yep, the false front will cover it, and depending on how you do it, it can mimic the look of half blind dovetails no problem.

Your dovetails look fine.  Looks like maybe your baseline moved a bit.  that happens when you chop the waste too aggressively.  Be very gentle with the first few chops until you get enough depth go whack at it.

[Guest]

What kind of bottom are you putting in the drawer? Plywood or solid wood?

[Steve N]

Decided to make handcut dovetail drawers

Awesome, and they will be very functional because of your degree of angle on them. Looks are subjective, on drawers very often perfection is over rated. Using a false front you have no worries about cutting a complete length dado, and for your first hand cut rodeo you will find they allow a lot of leeway when fitting your opening. If you don't use the false front a stopped dado, so you don't come through your face is what you need, a plunge router is best. On subsequent efforts if you are hand sawing on harder woods, those with little or no compression cut the line just slightly. On softer woods, those with some compression in them, leave that line, when you are fitting, the softer woods will compress just a bit and make a perfect fit. Your first effort sure looks better than mine did

[Cpl_Eyeball]

What kind of bottom are you putting in the drawer? Plywood or solid wood?

Picked up birch 3/16" ply from HD.  Too bad I can't use that 1/4" slot-cutting bit from Lee Valley.

Awesome, and they will be very functional because of your degree of angle on them. Looks are subjective, on drawers very often perfection is over rated. Using a false front you have no worries about cutting a complete length dado, and for your first hand cut rodeo you will find they allow a lot of leeway when fitting your opening. If you don't use the false front a stopped dado, so you don't come through your face is what you need, a plunge router is best. On subsequent efforts if you are hand sawing on harder woods, those with little or no compression cut the line just slightly. On softer woods, those with some compression in them, leave that line, when you are fitting, the softer woods will compress just a bit and make a perfect fit. Your first effort sure looks better than mine did
 
 
 

Yep, going with a false front and will cut the dado using a.... dado blade.  And thanks for the compliment, Steve.

[Cpl_Eyeball]

What kind of bottom are you putting in the drawer? Plywood or solid wood?

3/16" birch plywood from Home Depot.  Had it been 1/4", I would have used a slot cutting bit from Lee Valley.

Awesome, and they will be very functional because of your degree of angle on them. Looks are subjective, on drawers very often perfection is over rated. Using a false front you have no worries about cutting a complete length dado, and for your first hand cut rodeo you will find they allow a lot of leeway when fitting your opening. If you don't use the false front a stopped dado, so you don't come through your face is what you need, a plunge router is best. On subsequent efforts if you are hand sawing on harder woods, those with little or no compression cut the line just slightly. On softer woods, those with some compression in them, leave that line, when you are fitting, the softer woods will compress just a bit and make a perfect fit. Your first effort sure looks better than mine did
 
 
 

Thanks for your compliments, Steve.

[MidwestMan]

Picked up birch 3/16" ply from HD.  Too bad I can't use that 1/4" slot-cutting bit from Lee Valley.


Yep, going with a false front and will cut the dado using a.... dado blade.  And thanks for the compliment, Steve.

you could still use the 1/4" slot cutter on the router table, after the first pass, just raise the bit or lower it, and cut a 2nd pass making it as thick as  you need. I always have some scrap around to get it just right. I make the 1st cut on 2 pieces of scrap.... then on the project. Then raise the bit or lower it if you so choose, then try it out on the scrap. Check the fit with the actual bottom. Then proceed.