Keyhole routing
#11
After finishing my crib (I'll post pics at some point), I used some of the extra bubinga, which was very limited, to make a small-ish cross. It's about 19" x 10" or so, and it's already assembled (using a glued shiplap joint, so it's not going anywhere).

I realized that it might make sense to route a keyhole slot to hang it, but I fear it may be too late. I have a keyhole bit - somewhere - but I've never used it. Is it intuitive? Is it even possible, safely, to route a keyhole slot in a cross shape? It's not like anything can ride against the fence. Also, bubinga is pretty hard...I am sure even if it were possible, that would make it much worse.

From what I've read some people freehand these things, which seems a bit scary. Any ideas?
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#12
(11-24-2016, 10:37 PM)FS7 Wrote: It's about 19" x 10" or so

The first time using a keyhole, or any bit you sometimes might have reservations, but it would seem that given your dimensions you should be able to get some form of a guide clamped onto your router table to run the lower half (I'm assuming the crossing piece is near the top 1/3 of the piece) You only have to make a motion of 1/2 to 3/4" to make a hang hole. You don't need the guide to be full length, just enough bearing surface to allow for a non moving guide. You could actually clamp 2 parallel pieces to insert the bottom into if you feared side to side movement.

Use a straight cut bit to clear most of the waste, then just drill a slightly oversize hole for the size of your keyhole bit. and shove it forward a little bit. You could use a push pad for safety, but with it you may lose control. Seeing the cutting is at the other end of a 19" piece I would go sans push block.

Insert screw into a stud, and hang er up. Easy Peasy.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#13
There are a few ways to do it. Outline and cut the cross shape hole in a scrap piece to snugly hold the cross while routing.




[Image: cross%20route_zpsbzryqyty.jpg]
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#14
1 minute epoxy and a few micro pins would also work, safer than trying to make the key hole slot.
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#15
This may be one of those times when it makes sense to make a jig.

http://www.woodstore.net/plans/shop-plan...g-Jig.html

This jig uses a plunge router and might find you using that keyhole bit that has been sitting on the shelf for so long more frequently. As you can see in the link it is being used to cut a keyhole slot in a narrow piece of wood such as your cross.

I like this because I can see where the slot will be cut unlike when using a router table. My version is sized to work with a DeWalt 611 router.

I came across a correction to the original idea in Wood Magazine that I saved. If interested PM me.

Bill
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#16
Thanks for the ideas. I think a jig might be simple enough to work, especially if it would be reusable. Most of my frames end up having D-rings and wire, though. I don't really make anything small enough for a single slot.

Then again, drilling the hole out (I had wondered about this) eliminates the possibility of a plunge cut. That I would really have to do freehand, unless I lined up the slot perfectly and raised the bit into it. This makes it only a 1/2" slide cut, which is pretty simple even in very hard wood.

If I can climb cut perfect mortises for humidor hinges, I can probably do this. Side question, does bubinga burn easily? It sure seems like it. All inside corners of the cross are burned more or less evenly, so it doesn't look too bad, but even with a pretty sharp bit it burned very quickly.
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#17
FS7 said "I don't really make anything small enough for a single slot."

Since the jig references off an edge it is very easy to make a pair of keyhole slots at the same location across a wider frame.

Bill
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#18
One slot near the top of the 19" section would be more the enough to hold it.      As was said first make a slot with a straight bit, then the keyhole bit.    Remember which end of the slot(s) gets the entrance hole.    Rloly
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#19
My bosch keyhole bit maked all the cuts at one time. You do not cut a slot first. I do it on the cnc all the time. Plunge (makes the larger entry hole, cut slot, retract in same slot, remove from entry hole.


Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

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#20
Mike on a CNC you probably have ways to hold the workpiece very secure, and your bit and router are very secure. Both would allow easy plunging of a keyhole bit, but everyone doesn't have a CNC. Using a hand held router and plunging, or a router table and doing a start stop cut,  a keyhole without a previously drilled oversized hole can get real wily real quick, both the router, and the piece want to go real fast, and it isn't in a predictable direction. Makes climb cuts look like nothing. That was why I suggested drilling out a hole, using a straight cut bit (much more controllable) and then cutting the remaining small amount with a keyhole, That would work for either a route table, or plunge router hand held, which most people do have access to.

I don't know if FS7 has a CNC, if he does it may be the best way to proceed, I was throwing that out for any noobs, or people who wonder how to do that. Something else I failed to mention earlier is a handy clamp you have probably already got laying around can be used if you can control your hands to go straight for just that 3/4" or less is one of these.

[Image: screwclamp.jpg]
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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