Posts: 422
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Hey All,
Haven't been here in a while, but....
A friend in Northern Kentucky has just cut some healthy, what we think to be Northern Ash slabs for me to use as body blanks for some electric guitars. They're all in upwards of 24"x18"x2 1/2" and currently weigh between 40 & 50 pounds each. I live in Las Vegas and am not sure how or when to get them here. I'm guessing that drying time would be shortened a bit if I could get them here to the dry desert, but I'm trying to determine what should be done with them in the meantime?
He at least has a dry, out of the weather barn for storage. He's not a woodworker and I'd like to avoid putting him through any hoops, but do the ends need to get sealed or anything? With what? I'm assuming at least a couple years for drying, maybe a little less if I get it here. Then comes the question of making my own makeshift kiln? Notice that he avoided the "heart" for me.
Here are some pics:
Thanks Folks,
Gene
Gene
"Gettin' Old Ain't For Sissies"
Posts: 864
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Pottsville, Pa.
You would want to seal the end grain with anchor seal to help with checking that might happen during drying.
Fill your heart with compassion, seek the jewel in every soul, share a word of kindness, and remember; the people's what it's about.
Capt. Tony Tarracino
Posts: 12,885
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
Have him seal the ends - immediately, or they are going to crack. Wax emulsion (Anchorseal) or melted wax works the best, but aluminum roof coating works well, too.
An unheated barn would be a great place to put them on stickers to dry. Outside is good, too; just make sure they are well off the ground, stickered, and have a cover over the top to keep rain/snow off. After a year or so he could ship them to you for further, faster drying, but I don't recommend that right away or you risk having them dry too fast.
John
Posts: 3,066
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2004
Good advice so far, stickers must be dry.
There are restrictions about moving ash across state lines. I am not sure how those apply to your situation.
Posts: 10,118
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2006
Location: South Alabama
Remove the bark at the very least; ash can harbor dangerous pests that we're doing our best to keep at bay. Treating them with Borax would also be a good idea, just to cut down on the possibility of insect infestation.
Seal the ends, as everybody has said. Lots of good options mentioned above. In addition to all that, I've successfully used mastic, which is used to seal ductwork.
After a year of air drying, they will be a LOT lighter and easier to ship/move.
Steve S.
------------------------------------------------------
Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at
The Literary Workshop
Posts: 20,381
Threads: 4
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: CinDay
(11-28-2016, 07:12 PM)TomFromStLouis Wrote: There are restrictions about moving ash across state lines. I am not sure how those apply to your situation.
For a long time from Michigan downward they restricted it totally after the Ash bore. Then they cottoned to the idea that the bore only went as deep as the bark, so if the bark was off it was ok to cross state lines. Not sure which states now, but I wonder if bark off is ok?
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
Posts: 422
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Thanks to all for the great replies! Bark and about 1/4" of wood has been sawed off and Anchor Seal has been applied. He drilled holes in the corners to hang them upstairs in his barn. It was about 3-4 weeks after cutting the trees before he got them sealed. Was that soon enough to avoid problems?
Thanks Folks,
Gene
Gene
"Gettin' Old Ain't For Sissies"
Posts: 12,885
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
If he sees no cracks it probably was.
John
Posts: 12,885
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
Look for holes and frass on the floor below.
John
Posts: 741
Threads: 0
Joined: Mar 2006
Hopefully that works on sealing the ends. But in reality to do any good the ends need to be sealed immediately after cutting. Sure, some pieces never check, even without end sealing, but a lot do, and its proven that sealing helps lower the percentage that do.