Tool handle finish

[hbmcc]

Mike Brady said:

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I'm going with the current forum favorite: Diet Coke. I know its not as good as fourteen other finishes, but heck, we're talking about Diet Coke right now.

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+1. Just place used containers in covered metal recycle to prevent spontaneous flatulence.

[C. in Indy]

[quote pid='7303261' dateline='1466338920']
I'm a big fan of Tru-Oil. The stuff allows you to get just the degree of glance that you like. It depends on the number of coats you apply.

Some woods do interfere with TO however. Specifically the oily woods like Cocobolo shouldn't be finished with TO. On these woods I got good results with a finish of pure carnauba wax.

On rosewood handles of vintage Stanleys I had mixed results with TO. Some turned out very nice, others less.

Klaus
[/quote]

Hi Klaus,

    Just curious on how you apply a pure carnauba wax?   Is it via a hot buffing wheel, or some room-temp / hand-worked method?
    Don't worry, I will not duplicate your product and workmanship any time soon
 

Chris

[Pat Zabrocki]

Knock that lacquer down with a xtra fine abrasive pad, apply some wax, and I'll bet you'll be pretty happy with the look and feel
pat

[Bill_Houghton]

I've had good success with danish oil/Minwax.  Either one's a long-oil varnish (more oil than varnish).

[Jonathan S]

I Have used tru oil, and it looks great, but for tool handles I prefer shellac.  Easy to apply, and renew if necessary.

Jonathan

[Bill_Houghton]

I've used long-oil varnish (Danish Oil, Minwax) a couple of times with good success.

[Tynyyn]

I like using any ole' stain on the raw wood I've sanded to a smooth finish. Once the stain is applied I let it dry for a few minutes then hit it with a rattle can coat of clear. Then I will let the clear coat dry completely and take a piece of beeswax and rub it all over the handle. That leaves a nice feel to the handle like a piece of polished granite.

[KlausK.]

[quote pid='7303261' dateline='1466338920']
I'm a big fan of Tru-Oil. The stuff allows you to get just the degree of glance that you like. It depends on the number of coats you apply.

Some woods do interfere with TO however. Specifically the oily woods like Cocobolo shouldn't be finished with TO. On these woods I got good results with a finish of pure carnauba wax.

On rosewood handles of vintage Stanleys I had mixed results with TO. Some turned out very nice, others less.

Klaus

Hi Klaus,

    Just curious on how you apply a pure carnauba wax?   Is it via a hot buffing wheel, or some room-temp / hand-worked method?
    Don't worry, I will not duplicate your product and workmanship any time soon
 

Chris
[/quote]

Hi Chris,

sorry for the late reply. I melt some carnauba flakes in a porcellaine cup by using a little torch (one my wife uses in the kitchen for making creme brulee 
). Then wait a few seconds until the wax gets out of fluid consistence. You have a few minutes to apply it onto the workpiece with a cotton rag. After a short while it will be needed to repeat the process. Usually the open time is enough to get a handle done with one coat. It needs to get 2 at least. After the last layer the handle gets some buffing on the wheel and you're done.

Klaus

Edit: withstand the temptation to apply the wax when it's fluid, you'll get a mess!

[Arlin Eastman]

I used Tru-Oil on this Bailey #6 - looks good, feels good.  

I am going with what Phil said

I love using Tru-oil on the handles I make and then I just buff them with the Beall buffing system and they feel great.

[daddo]

I get mine down to a fine sanded finish and just use it. My natural hand oil fixes it up over time.