Heat for the Shop

[ckx707]

Tony,

I'm curious if you settled on a plan yet?

I just went through this same debate and ended up putting in a 75kBTU Beacon Morris hanging heater with a separated combustion/concentric vent kit from Menards. I ended up doing the install myself but did have two HVAC contractors quote similar solutions as well as mini-split, propane, and a few other gas routing options. The mini-split would have been nice in the summer but they HVAC guys were talking $1500-2000 more than a gas heater which was tough to swallow. For me gas was the clear choice but the challenge was how to get it to the shop as running a private line from our current meter would require crossing our underground electrical service, septic system, at least 3 drain tiles that I know of, a water line to a garden spigot, and most likely a few flower beds and brick walkways. I was actually considering going with a propane tank just for the shop but when I ran the numbers that didn't make sense in the long run do to the higher fuel cost. In the end I had our local gas company run a new service line and meter off the main which they did for free but make back with the $10/month facilities charge. The building is a 26x30 garage, R13 in the walls, uninsulated door, slab is not insulated, and I still haven't insulated the attic but the ceiling is finished off with OSB and the heater will raise the temp about a degree per minute from cold. I haven't seen the first gas bill yet but based on my observations of runtime while keeping the temp at 55 or so while painting I don't think it will be too bad considering the lack of insulation right now.

Anyway... pics or it didn't happen...





After struggling to work in a 20 degree shop in the past just to get some winter time I can already say that the money spent on the this heater is totally worth it.

-Chris

[Mike Brady]

That's similar to what I installed, except that I went vertical with the vent (varies with local code).  As a former heating and A/C professional, I find these unit heaters to be very effective for providing heat to areas that aren't used 24/7.  Adding insulation in outside walls helps ease the load.  Concrete floors don't get much above 50 degrees; so they won't feel as warm as the air.  I used a 40-70 degree thermostat to control it.  Check the heat exchanger for cracks and holes before each heating season as that can be a source for CO (carbon monoxide).

[joemac]

I have a shop in far northern Wisconsin. Built 20 years ago, I opted for radiant heat in the floor. I heat with a propane water heater and use a pump.  I have been there when the outside temperature is -30f and was as comfortable as when it is +80.  The drawback is that it takes a while to heat the area since it is done by hot tubes in the floor heating the concrete slab and ultimately your floor based equipment.  The plus side is that it averages about a dollar a day for propane to heat during the winter. 

I am not there all the time so it stays set at 50 and I raise it to 70 when I am there.  After twenty years, I would not hesitate to do the same thing again.  I have a through the wall air conditioner for summer.

[Mike Brady]

I would agree with Joe that radiant heat is fantastic for almost any application, but the chief caviat is that it is very difficult to retrofit since it relies on piping/tubing to deliver the heat and that piping is ideally installed during construction of the space.  Very few of us have the opportunity to actually construct a shop from literally, the ground up. I doubt anyone is going to tear out their garage floor, install the piping and then replace the floor; doable but not practical ( as long as you're at it, do the driveway too!).  I have a friend who just built a shop by having two garages put end-to-end in his back yard.  His heat is radiant and wisely so.