Some workbench questions

[cputnam]

A bench top needs to be rigid and strong and non-slip. For me, MDF is a non-starter. If using plywood, I rip a number of 3" - 4" strips so that they could be laminated with the edge forming the bench surface. For that level of trouble, I'd use real wood instead. Doug Fir and SYP make good benches. I lucked into a stash of soft maple that I will use for my top.

Paint will give you a slick surface that will wear away under heavy bench use. I'd stay away from it.

At the very least, go through the books by Scott Landis and Christopher Schwarz. Pay attention when they talk about a bench as a tool.

As always, YMWV

[MattP]

A bench top needs to be rigid and strong and non-slip.  For me, MDF is a non-starter.  If using plywood, I rip a number of 3" - 4" strips so that they could be laminated with the edge forming the bench surface.  For that level of trouble, I'd use real wood instead.  Doug Fir and SYP make good benches.  I lucked into a stash of soft maple that I will use for my top.

Paint will give you a slick surface that will wear away under heavy bench use.  I'd stay away from it.

At the very least, go through the books by Scott Landis and Christopher Schwarz.  Pay attention when they talk about a bench as a tool.

As always, YMWV

Having a slick surface sounds like a feature, not a bug, to me. What am I missing?

That said, I could probably use dye instead.

[meackerman]

you don't want what you're working on to slide around. 
 
On my plywood top I just applied a couple coats of danish oil and the surface is not slick, no need to rip the plywood up and reglue.

[Adnick]

Believe me Rob's mdf benches are strong, and rigid no issues with his design from those criteria. Never would've thought an mdf bench was a real option but it is. Would not want one myself but not because it fails as a bench.

Some people wax their bench tops, some scuff them up, it's personal preference.

Andy,
mos maiorum

[cwarner]

One of the Schwarz bench books has a plan for a bench made out of LVLs,  may be another option since you are thinking engineered products.

[PeteW]

About 15-18 months ago I built this bench (under the window). The base is built up of pine 2x4s for the legs, and 1x6s for the lower stretchers. The top is four layers of 3/4-inch MDF laminated to give a 3-inch final thickness, then wrapped in 3/4-inch beech. The top is lag-bolted from beneath the end rails. A row of dogholes was drilled along the front, and a couple more added in the centre of the bench. I added two more in the right-hand leg which, with holdfasts or pegs, provide support or clamping for long stock held in the vise.

It's roughly based on the Popular Woodworking's 24-hour workbench described here:
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projec..._workbench

And 24 hours is roughly what it took to build. Changes made include the use of MDF instead of plywood for the top, and beefing up all of the other parts. It was cheap, quick to build, absolutely rock solid, and does everything I ever wanted from a bench. Holdfasts work perfectly in the top and show no sign of wear and tear yet (if you were worried you could run some CA glue down to harden the exposed MDF). The quick-release vise is lag-bolted from beneath into the top; I was worried about the ability of MDF to handle the weight and movement but after extensive online reading about MDF benchtops I decided to go for it, and so far there's no sign of play.

Not the prettiest bench in the world, but otherwise I highly-recommend it!

[Hank Knight]

In my view, bench width is a personal choice, as is the length. It is dictated by the work you do, the space you have and, more importantly, what you feel comfortable with. When I built my bench, I did all the research and read many, many admonitions about not building a bench wider than, say, 24". Some even recommended 18" as the optimum width. I think narrow benches suit pure hand tool users. I'm not a hand tool purist; I use whatever gets the job done, including a lot of power tools. Moreover, I don't have room for a separate assembly table, so most of my work gets assembled on my bench. For these reasons, 24" just didn't seem wide enough. My bench ended up about 32" wide. I thought I had committed a serious heresy, but the it has worked well for me and I wouldn't have a norrower bench.

I think the length of your bench is more important than the width, and the longer the better. My original bench was 60" long. I was forever struggling with work that was too long for my bench. The bench I built is 7' long and, if I'd had room, I would have built it 2 feet longer. But at 7', it suits my needs very well.

I have an opinion about MDF for a bench top, but PeteW's post just blew it out of the water. I will say, however, that MDF soaks up liquids like a sponge. I use my bench for everything: glueing, sharpening with oil stones, finishing, reconditioning tools and many other things that involve oil, solvents, glue, cleaners and the like. It's nice to be able to wipe my maple top clean with a paper towel, maybe soaked with a little mineral spirits, or scrub it with some fine steel wool, and have it sparkling clean again. My RAS bench has a replaceable masonite top. Every drop of liquid that falls on it soaks in immediately and leaves a stain. It has drips, splotches, rings from finish cans and every other kind of stain you can imagine in a workshop. It's really ugly. Fortunately I can replace it with a new, clean piece of masonite. Just sayin'...

Hank

[Bill Holt]

Matt, my first work bench (not woodworking bench) is roughly 42 yrs old, 2x4 & 2x12 construction with 3/16" Masonite top. The intention was to have a replaceable top....never happened.  Maybe 8 yrs ago I wanted a woodworking bench and went through a similar process as you.  The vast majority advised building over buying; many said your first is not your last.  I went with "used" SYP.  By the time I ripped and cleaned, the top is about 2 1/2" thick.  Like you, I thought 24" was not deep enough; I settled on 32"x 80".  MDF may be adequate, but I doubt it would have taken the abuse I have dished out.  The vises and dog holes are the work horses!  My main regret...dog hole spacing is 6"!

A couple of yrs ago someone started a thread: The Last Tool I Would Give Up Is........ (or something like that). I was not the only one to respond "work bench".  My point: there is no substitute for well built bench; do it right and you will be pleased.

[Rob Young]

A bench top needs to be rigid and strong and non-slip.  For me, MDF is a non-starter.  ...

Pay attention when they talk about a bench as a tool.

As always, YMWV

Yep.  My garage bench gets used for many things besides handwork ("good" bench is in the basement).  Started out as MDF, nice and smooth and slick which is a good thing as it also doubles as the outfeed for my TS.  However about 10 years of banging on it, using it as an assembly table and being a bit of a puddle duck with the glue, not so slick any more.  Much better grip now.

[Rob Young]

It would also be easy enough to route a groove and inlay some maple before drilling the hold fast holes.  Or just adding a strip on the bottom side, surface glued. 

I've got some hold fast holes in my garage workbench.  Originally intended as the outfeed for my TS so the top is two layers of MDF.  The holes work fine but I'm a little bit more careful about how hard I set the hold fasts.  In fact, I usually use the screw-set version that Lee Valley sells.  Its the one based on the old Record design.  Or I'm using dogs and the surface dog vice thingy from LV on that bench.

4" thick Roubo in the basement, I can whack the daylights out of a holdfast and no damage.