Grave marker in the shape of police badge
#11
I am making a grave marker from teak wood that I paid a pretty penny for. The item is to be in the shape of a policemans badge.
Should I use gorilla glue or the green bottle of titebond 3 glue to glue to pieces of wood together it will be concreted standing straight up and down on a post next to the head stone
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#12
I am not fan of Gorilla Glue, I would use the tite bond 3.
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#13
Or use an epoxy
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#14
(01-28-2017, 04:37 PM)glennw Wrote: Or use an epoxy

I think this is one case where epoxy holds the edge 

It is going to be exposed to the elements for a very long time and that is going to be brutal enough on the wood 

do what you can to protect the investment 

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#15
I would use marine epoxy. May even want to top coat it with a marine epoxy to keep the color as long as you could. Sounds like a nice project. Hope you show a photo.

I am in the process of trying to find someone to make me a flag holder for an idea I have but tough to find a metal worker who does these type things. I want it it put on my grave when I move on.
John T.
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#16
I would go with an epoxy if it was meant to be outdoors all the time. Teak is oily, and some find it hard to glue, hit it with some Acetone and allow that to air dry off before gluing it up, and you will see better adhesion.

Also unless you already have it "police badge" is a vague word, they come in a lot of shapes. Unless it is a really small town they will have the badge design online, using it Kinko's or similar can size it up for you. My BIL does badges for a number of Ohio departments for the visual on corn hole boards. He doesn't have what some retired guys refer to as spare time.

Just an idea of what I mean by variety of shapes
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#17
Epoxy (even marine epoxy) does not make a good final coat for outdoor projects because it is vulnerable to UV rays. It will turn to a muddled yellow like it did on my cedar strip canoe. 

To protect epoxy clear coats from UV damage, boat builders use many (like 7 or more) initial coats of high quality marine varnish (not the stuff you find at Home Depot). The good stuff is about $50 a quart at boat supply shops. And you will need to re-coat with fresh varnish annually to keep it looking decent, especially if it is in direct sunlight. Or paint is much more effective for UV protection. 

Personally, I would go with boiled linseed oil. It looks great and upkeep is a simple wipe with some more oil.
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#18
Sherwin Williams A100 ultra deep tint base. No added tint, straight out of the can.

It is clear paint. In about a month, I will go take an annual picture of an 8' tall walnut cross I built and installed outdoors in a memorial garden. Two coats.

This will be year number 2---last March, the picture looked exactly like the one after installation.

I figured maybe two to three years before retouching. Looks like maybe 3+ now.
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#19
Glenn

I would use epoxy and they you will know it will not come apart. Also if you put it all over the outside and ends it will never rot either. It will cost you more but it will last a long time.

Also make sure you secure it good to the ground or someone may steal it
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#20
Have no idea about what glue/adhesive/epoxy to use.

My concern is about the project and its placement. 

Some cemeteries have very strict rules/prohibitions about what can/can not be placed on or near a grave or headstone. If you have not looked into this, it might be worthwhile to consult the cemetery.
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