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02-07-2017, 03:28 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-07-2017, 03:57 PM by Snipe Hunter.)
Is there an alternative to Truss clips?
I've got to move/build some interior walls. In the past, I've drilled an oversized hole through the top plate, slid a coated sinker into it and nailed it to the joists, leaving about 1/2 inch of the nail sticking out. But, I really should use a double top plate which is too thick for that method. I went by HD today and apparently they sell drywall, studs and everything you might need to build an interior wall.... just not rafter clips.
Is there an acceptable alternative?
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02-07-2017, 03:40 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-07-2017, 03:42 PM by Roly.)
Did you look by the Simpson strong tie display ? Normally around the decking materials. Probably listed as Hurricane clips. If I am thinking of the correct item.
LINK Roly
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Those are hurricane clips. I think I misspoke and probably should have called them
Truss Clips. They are for interior walls where they meet truss and have a slot in them to allow the rafters to move up and down without pulling the wall up with them.
Truss Clips
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I'm not a licenced builder.... But why would you need rafter clips on an interior wall that is only holding itself up?
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(02-07-2017, 03:48 PM)CLETUS Wrote: I'm not a licenced builder.... But why would you need rafter clips on an interior wall that is only holding itself up?
Truss clips
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02-07-2017, 04:41 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-07-2017, 04:41 PM by Mr_Mike.)
All I can do is speak from my experience building HfH houses.
Interior walls are not attached to trusses. Generally, you get truss movement due to temperature and the bottom chords move up and down a bit. Generally, the flex in the drywall is sufficient to keep the wall/ceiling corners from gapping. Unless a wall is otherwise free-standing and not tied into other walls, I see no need to tie to the roof structure. The drywall alone would add enough stability anyway.
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02-07-2017, 04:45 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-07-2017, 04:47 PM by Roly.)
Here is one alternative. This pdf explains what and why it happens. Not so sure if it will work for you.
LINK Has the lifting been a problem for you ? Roly
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(02-07-2017, 04:41 PM)Mr_Mike Wrote: All I can do is speak from my experience building HfH houses.
Interior walls are not attached to trusses. Generally, you get truss movement due to temperature and the bottom chords move up and down a bit. Generally, the flex in the drywall is sufficient to keep the wall/ceiling corners from gapping. Unless a wall is otherwise free-standing and not tied into other walls, I see no need to tie to the roof structure. The drywall alone would add enough stability anyway.
Yup. The ceiling will move up with with a heavy snow load as well. And you don't nail the drywall within 12" of the walls to allow the drywall to flex and not break joints.
I wish more trusses were used. Here you rarely see trusses but then again the style of house here doesn't lend itself to being a truss roof. Sure makes remodeling easy when you have no load bearing interior walls. Also allows for a dryed in house before the interior framing is built if needed.
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(02-07-2017, 04:45 PM)Roly Wrote: Here is one alternative. This pdf explains what and why it happens. Not so sure if it will work for you. LINK Has the lifting been a problem for you ? Roly
Thanks, that's probably more than I want to deal with as the ceiling is already in. I may just let it float.
You get 3/4" lift or more in this area. One big problem is that blown in insulation falls between the truss and the sheetrock if the nails or screws fail and then it's a nasty mess. I have blown in insulation here.
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Trusses are all we see here. Roof lines, however, are pretty simple. I don't even know if you can do a stick built roof given earthquake requirements.
My retirement home in Tennessee is also truss. In fact, 100% attic trusses. Only wish it had a hot roof to keep the storage area cooler. I'll have to look into that.
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