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(02-08-2017, 07:24 PM)betamax Wrote: Stupid question but I have what I think is proper belt deflection but the motor does bottom out on the bracket, is that ok?
Probably not. Assuming the motor hangs out the back, it should be supported by the belt. But I'm guessing, as that's how most 'contractor' style saws work. You also don't want to overload the hinge by bottoming out, if that's possible. A broken cast iron ear will ruin your year. But with link-type belts, you can easily remove a link or two. There should be a manual for that saw on OWWM.com, which should show the proper motor orientation (depending on blade elevation, I would assume).
Nice job on the tables, fence, and shiny new CI top. That's a keeper.
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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I noticed your old saw has the optional retractable casters. Are you going to transfer them over to the new stand? My saw has them and when the wheels wore down, I replaced them with slightly larger steel wheels. Rolls much better now.
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2126.pdf
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Would the casters transfer over? The old base is narrower so I wasn't sure.
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(02-13-2017, 04:42 PM)betamax Wrote: Would the casters transfer over? The old base is narrower so I wasn't sure.
I'm not sure either. If you look at Figures 6 and 7 in the link I provided, there appear to be different retractable caster shafts for different stands. However, there are also holes in the shafts at different spacings and notes on Figure 6 which indicate which holes were to be used for different stands. My stand is Catalog No. 50-315, which I believe is the same stand you have under your new saw. The length of the shafts on my stand is 24". How long are the shafts on your stand?
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The shafts on mine are about 18" long.
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(02-16-2017, 12:01 AM)betamax Wrote: The shafts on mine are about 18" long.
If you want to transfer the casters to the new stand you'll have to make two 1/2" dia. x 24" shafts. Let me know if you need any measurements. What is the serial number of your new saw?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-.../204273963
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That would be great, I'll get you the serial number later today when I get home. Sounds like it should be fairly easy to do, but yes, I'll need to know some measurements.
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Serial number is jb9644. Stand number is 50-315
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(02-16-2017, 10:35 PM)betamax Wrote: Serial number is jb9644. Stand number is 50-315
According to the information in following link, your saw was built in 1977 in Tupelo, Mississippi.
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/DeltaSe...mbers.ashx
My stand is also Catalog No. 50-315. You'll need to drill three holes in each 24" shaft, two for the cams and one for the foot lever. You can probably transfer the hole locations over from your shorter shafts, but let me know if you need measurements. The holes need to be accurately centered in the shafts so that the pins can be driven all the way through. Maybe you can clamp an old and new shaft together in your vise and use the old shaft as a drill guide. The installation instructions are shown in the manual I linked before.
