lathe chuck
#17
Nova has a lot of different jaw set available but they are not always self explanatory.
Spigot jaws are sized by the interior where most other Novas are sized by the exterior.  When buying additional sets it is good to check the specs to make sure you are not almost duplicating a set you already have.
http://www.teknatool.com/wp-content/uplo...e-inch.pdf
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#18
I think the lathe has about a 12 swing, it has a gap bed.  I do have live and dead centers, but think a nice chuck would be useful.  I've thought about rigging up an additional "jack shaft" with another set of pulleys to slow it down for some things.  I know it was an option when new, but back in 73 when I was 14, the $250.00 for the lathe and a set of chisels (without stand) already made a dent in my savings.  I mowed lawns back then for $3.00, $3.00 , and $5.00, and snow shoveling jobs.  My Father helped me with a drill chuck and a couple other items that could be made with common hardware.

About 17 years ago, I needed to turn a couple newel posts, one almost 5 foot long, and they were designed to be square on the bottom and turned on the top.  I made an extension, and then fastened the lathe to one of the "columns in my basement to keep the lathe from shaking while I turned it.  It was a very stressful turning(s).  Very proud of the result though.

Thanks for all the comments,  I don't usually post here, you people must be daytime people.
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#19
The PSI was my first chuck for a few years. (I did almost all faceplate work for the first 3 years tho and it is one of the best things for bowl work)

This is the one I bought

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/CSC3000CTN.html

and I really really grew to dislike the chuck since the back was totally open and allowed everything to get in it and gummed up all the time and had to take it apart constantly to clean it.  I also did not like the handle with the gear which seemed I was always trying to find the gear the right way.  It did come with all

the do dads but I also found when I tightened them I could see the dovetail of the chuck bending out really easily.  Sold it after 18 months and got the Axminister Evolution from Lee Valley and it is stainless steel with the back sealed up and the back also has  24, and 36, index stops on the back.  The handle is square on the end and fits nicely and very easy to make a long handled bar and grind a square on the bottom of it to.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.as...9091,69183

and the jaws are here

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/Search.aspx?action=n

and I really really like the O'Donnell Spigot Jaws & Inserts which can easily enlarge or reduce opening so fast just one screw in each one and it makes it like pen jaws or for a very small dovetail opening.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.as...9091,69184
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#20
I've got some parts for that Delta lathe if you are need of anything.

GM
The only tool I have is a lathe.  Everything else is an accessory.
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#21
(02-23-2017, 11:35 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: The PSI was my first chuck for a few years. (I did almost all faceplate work for the first 3 years tho and it is one of the best things for bowl work)

This is the one I bought

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/CSC3000CTN.html

and I really really grew to dislike the chuck since the back was totally open and allowed everything to get in it and gummed up all the time and had to take it apart constantly to clean it.  I also did not like the handle with the gear which seemed I was always trying to find the gear the right way.  It did come with all

the do dads but I also found when I tightened them I could see the dovetail of the chuck bending out really easily.  Sold it after 18 months and got the Axminister Evolution from Lee Valley and it is stainless steel with the back sealed up and the back also has  24, and 36, index stops on the back.  The handle is square on the end and fits nicely and very easy to make a long handled bar and grind a square on the bottom of it to.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.as...9091,69183

and the jaws are here

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/Search.aspx?action=n

and I really really like the O'Donnell Spigot Jaws & Inserts which can easily enlarge or reduce opening so fast just one screw in each one and it makes it like pen jaws or for a very small dovetail opening.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=69135&cat=1,330,69091,69184



Arlin those Axminster chucks look like they're at least a couple steps up in quality.  The indexing feature would be nice to have too.
Rodney
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#22
(02-23-2017, 09:03 PM)toolmiser Wrote: Thanks for all the comments,  I don't usually post here, you people must be daytime people.


Laugh
Laugh Many here are. Some of us, not so much.


Other than that, just LIL.

Another Nova chuck owner here. I am not smart enough to get away with mixing Nova and Oneway chucks in my shop (nor do I trust the other turners in the family to be that much more coordinated and observant than I am).

Nove does righty-tighty for expanding out into a mortise grip.

Oneway does righty-tighty for clamping down on a tenon.

When you are using a chuck, it is good practice to stop every so often and snug-up/check the chuck tightness. That is especially true when turning green wood.

One nice thing is that almost all of the jaws will fit all of the different size chucks. There is one jaw set that is only for the Titan chuck. There may also be one set that is only for the SuperNova 2 (SN2) or Titan.

The Record chuck jaws will also fit the Nova chucks.

If you decide that you need a set of 35mm jaws, buy the Record rather than the Nova. For some unfathomable reason, Nova made both the 25mm and the 35mm have the same tenon capacity. The Record 35mm tenon range is what you would expect from dovetail jaws.

As others mentioned the Axminster are high-end chucks. The Vicmarc are in that category as well. I have one of their discontinued VM140 chucks and it is very nice.

On your gap bed, I was always puzzled by that gap since it was too close to the headstock for turning plates or platters, Someone finally explained that the gap was so that you could remove or change the banjo without having to take the stock from between centers. That made it much easier to sand a spindle. It also made it easier to add a second banjo for a long tool rest after you have the spindle roughed to round.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

A wish for you all:  May you keep buying green bananas.
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