2.5" round nose bit? where to find?

[Steve N]

Nothing says a guy can't run an 8' length through the TS to get the cove, and cross cut to 10" pieces when done. I would be leary of shorties too.

[Steve N]

Ohhh just another thought. On another thread about TS cove someone opined that using a dado blade would speed things up. That is a HUGE no no. very high possibility of wild kickback, because you are meeting 2 spinning edges at different angles. Which just doesn't work

The single blade works, if you find that it takes too long, AND you make a lot of cove on the TS then this is your Huckleberry

[Alan S]

With regard to the dado set, while you don't want the stack for the reason mentioned, using a single smaller blade will make the elliptical curve more closely approximate a circle.

[JGrout]

With regard to the dado set, while you don't want the stack for the reason mentioned, using a single smaller blade will make the elliptical curve more closely approximate a circle.

I agree this is a viable solution 

Just to be clear though we are talking about a smaller diameter saw blade not a single blade out of a dado set. The teeth configuration is wrong on one blade or the other and it will not turn out well using these blades. You will either destroy one blade or you will have such a rough cut cove it is not worth it. 

I still like the use of a cove cutting blade like Steve posted I use a magic molder with the same profile knives to make my coves. 

Just a lot less cutting surfaces. 

Joe

[Guest]

How about a blade on a ras, like at 1:08 in this video.
Looks like a 8" lawnmower blade, twisted and sharpened at the ends!

[MstrCarpenter]

Coves can easily and safely be cut on the table saw. I've been doing it since 1975 with good results and no injuries or even panic moments because I've done it the way I was taught. There have already been lots of good suggestions here and I'm only replying because I feel portions of some of the replies are incorrect or possibly unsafe. First of all, coves can be cut with a single fence. Two fences are safer and produce better results in most cases. Some exceptions would be when half the cove(blade) is under the fence or when using a feather board. I like a fence the same thickness as the stock; it's easy to add a plywood guard/hold-down to the top. Stack dado blades shouldn't be used because only the closest blade will be removing stock anyway. I can see no reason to use a smaller diameter blade. A stiff, full size (diameter) blade should be used to keep the angle as low as possible. (Neither the blade nor the saw were actually designed to cut sideways.) The comment that really made me reply was pulling the stock back over the blade. I can't say I've never had to feed backwards into the T.S., but I've never suggested that someone else should do it.

On the other hand, cutting coves on 5 hp. R.A.S. could actually be fun. Use two fences and a hold-down. (Don't forget to raise the pawls.) Aim the in-feed side out the shop door and elevate it about 45*. Now mill about half-way through a ten footer. Let go. Run like hell! Check to see if you cleared the house across the street.

[Guest]

How about a blade on a ras, like at 1:08 in this video.
Looks like a 8" lawnmower blade, twisted and sharpened at the ends!

Ooop's

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPIFwlvwN-0