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I like the addition of threaded rod. When I made mine I did the joint with a long Oak dowel. Figured that was as strong as the wood surrounding it. I made 4 of them on the lathe...without a steady rest. Lots of light cuts.
The motivation for my first one was when my Dad was going through cancer treatments. He really needed a cane but was basically too bull headed to buy one. After I made it for him it never left his side. In fact it still is, we buried it with him.
If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
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Oak dowels or mortise and tenon joints both work well with the advantage of being able to use regular wood glue. No oak dowels at my local hardware store or I would probably use them instead. I'm not sure what wood is used in their dowels but it's soft and not very strong. I wouldn't trust it for joint in a cane.
Rodney
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I made 4 canes and there was only one that didn't "feel" right in the joint. I think I actually made it too small around the joint area and took some strength away because of it.
If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
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I should be able to get the final coat of oil on it this evening. It's basically done, I doubt any differences in appearance would show on camera at this point. Here's how it looks now.
Rodney
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I really like this one... has it sold yet... lol
Kayakangler@verizon.net
I have been hoping to make my own cane for years... but without a lathe, I never really gave it much hope. I have been doing a lot more hand tool work in the last few years, so I figured I could use a spoke shave.
Fell and shattered my femur in September of last year, so wasn't doing anything the last six months... just ordered two spokeshaves from Lee Valley... we'll see how it goes.
Jim in Okie
You can tell a lot about the character of a man -
By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
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That one sold the first day I posted it.
You don't need a lathe to make a cane. One of my favorite styles is with a natural shank with the bark on. The British make a lot this way.
The tips I make can be done on a drill press too. They would be a little more fiddly to make is all. You can also buy some very nice pre-made tips. A lot of makers just slip a rubber tip over the end too.
Here's one I just finished and still have.
[/url]
[url=http://s586.photobucket.com/user/RodneyWT1180B/media/walking%20stick%20pictures/walking%20sticks%20019_zps0yupatot.jpg.html]It's hard to tell from the picture but there's some really nice maple in the handle. It has a really tight curl to it and some excellent spalting.
The shank on this one is Hazel.
A better picture of the handle.
I try to give my sticks about a year per inch of thickness to cure. I keep them in my unheated shop. A cool dry place is best. The year per inch is a safe rule of thumb but it depends on a lot of factors. Sometimes they dry faster. Cut them long. Any cracking will generally happen at the ends first.
If you pick a species with smooth tight bark you don't need to peel them.
Sending you a PM.
Rodney
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That looks great! Spalted Maple really sets it off. I used the rubber tips on mine. They were for my folks and they preferred the grip on them.
If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
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Thank you. I enjoy making these natural bark ones.
Rodney
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Nice job, thanks for sharing. Your handle looks very comfortable.