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(05-26-2017, 08:12 AM)Pirate3 Wrote: I cut 8, 3/4" wide x 1 1/2" deep dados in 2, 2 x 4' s. 16 total.
Ganged together on the Ras, it took about 5 minutes to cut all the dados in 3 steps.
I think a ras is the best way to cut to length, and dado.
just not rips as the OP specified
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That's a lot of material to remove in a single pass.
I would set up my table saw fence and dado head so that I could make this in two passes. First pass in one direction and reversing the stock for the second pass.
This will allow you to remove less per pass (and not overworking your saw) and it guarantees that the groove is centered.
Note: I learned how to use a table saw from a book written in the early 1950s. Back then a groove cut across grain was a dado; and one cut along the grain was a "groove". I still revert to that terminology.
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Oop's. The word dado threw me off. Didn't realize it was a groove.
I have a 1 knife moulding head with a flat cutter, that might work. On the ts. Not sure how Many it would cut, before sharpening. Non carbide cutter. I've only used a profile bit in it.
If not doing a lot of pieces, running them thru the dado head, then cleaning up on the router table, would do a nice job. But 2 operations.
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If I'm reading all this correctly, seems to me I would use my woodmaster molding machine.
You can get straight cutters to cut that groove. You can put in several different cutters, depending on which machine you have, 12", 18", or 24" machine.
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Depending on the quality needed for the bottom of the groove I would use my Wobble Dado blade and I would use my radial arm saw. Easy to set up repeatable cuts. The wobble has more teeth than any of most dado sets for a cleaner surface cut. I know wobbles are not that popular but I like mine, again, depending on the quality of the bottom surface needed.
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+1 for the shaper, I would try stacking 6 - 1/4" 3 or 4 wing cutters together on the spindle and run a bunch of test cuts to see how deep I could get in one pass. It kind of depends on what's in your arsenal of tools. I have a Powermatic 26a 5hp shaper that I think would easily accomplish this in one pass.
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(05-29-2017, 11:51 AM)Eurekan Wrote: Depending on the quality needed for the bottom of the groove I would use my Wobble Dado blade and I would use my radial arm saw. Easy to set up repeatable cuts. The wobble has more teeth than any of most dado sets for a cleaner surface cut. I know wobbles are not that popular but I like mine, again, depending on the quality of the bottom surface needed.
Do you think removing that much material on the radial arm saw might cause the blade to ride up and back? I've never had it happen to me but I've read it is a possibility when removing too much on one pass on the RAS.
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Well, we got the job! 400 to start with!
-using untreated 5/4 and 4x4's.
-dado to be 1/4".
-going to try 2 set ups: the craftsman molding head in 2 side by side passes and an 1-1/4" dia router bit.
- If all goes well and we get the whole project, a shaper is looking like an investment to make.
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Instead of a wide dado can the project be redesigned to use a smaller dado with a tongue on the mating piece. Depending on the project, the resulting shoulder increases strength and looks more finished. Any furring or tearout of the dado edges will be covered by the shoulder formed by the tongue on the mating piece.
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Just an update:
-cut 1600' linear feet of 1/4" deep by 1-1/2" wide dado (techically, 1600' of 1" wide and 1600' of 1/2" wide)
-used a craftsman molding head on an older Ryobi Saw System. This worked wonderfully! It took roughly 4 hours total to make the cuts. This was a test order. If we get the whole contract, we will want to go to a single pass cut.
We are going to try (just to see if it'll work) mounting 2 routers in-line to eliminate flipping the board end to end. If not, probably a shaper.
One thing we are likely to invest in is a power feed. Kinda got my eye on the Grizzly Baby power feed G4073. Anyone use one?
