synthetic deck gapping

[bsheffer]

I am thinking about replacing decking on a lakehouse property. The current wooden deck is failing and needs to go. One of the things I noticed on existing decking is that the spacing between the boards is about a 1/2 inch or so. No big deal and my sense is they did it this way to ensure any of the 100 trees that drop their droppings on the deck will be easier to clean as debre can be easily blown through the boards.

My sense would be to install a synthetic deck product and toe nail the boards to install. I don't want to surface nail due to looks and I am not particularly interested in attaching from the bottom due to the effort required. I have read that one issue is splintering when toenailing. I have a kreig jig I use in the shop for cabinets and things which might be the ideal tool to toe nail. Anyone have any thoughts on this. The deck is fairly narrow at 10 feet and is about 40 feet wide. Decking will run perpendicular to the house. I need to fix the current 24 inch centers but that should be simple if I split the difference by installing additional framing to end up with 12 inch centers.

[kb10103]

you could look into the camo system for securing the deck boards, works well with composite and hides the screws on the sides of the boards and drives them at an angle.

http://www.camofasteners.com/

also i have spaced the few decks I've done in composite at 3/16" between boards side to side and about an 1/8" end to end. each manufacturer has then own recommendations however so just follow what they say.

[CLETUS]

Yes, on the camo system. 16 penny nail for spacing.

[JosephP]

1/2" sounds pretty big.  What is under it?  Seems like it would be too easy to drop stuff through 1/2" gaps that  you don't want to fish out.

I'm guessing they didn't do 1/2" on purpose, but that is what happened as the lumber dried???

[EdL]

Did my wraparound porch in the original Trex, the smooth stuff, no grain.
Their instructions were, pilot drill, use stainless screws and bury them below the surface. Then you pounded down the raised material with a hammer.

Worked for me, some screws are visible, don't see it as an issue.

I used 3/16 steel spacers to set the gap, pleased with that also.

Ed

[fixtureman]

I use Phantom fasteners on mine