Posts: 58
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Olympia, WA
Hi all,
Trying to smooth some VG fir to use as window trim. In the past I have always sanded it but I don't feel like listening to the sander all week.
I can't get the fir as smooth as I would like and I am looking for some tips. Planes are sharp and pretty well tuned. Grain changes direction a bit in the fir which I guess is most of the problem. I can get it smooth but it only feels like 120-150 grit to me. I would like it a little smoother. Any tips are appreciated.
Thanks,
John
Follow along on the instantgram: room_23_woodworks
Posts: 2,084
Threads: 1
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Mechanicsville, Md
I realize this is the hand tool forum but, depending on how much linear footage you have, it may be worth seeing if a local shop rents out sander time, The shop I work in does it all of the time. We have a 3' wide belt sander. Locals are always renting time on it. Just a thought.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.
Garry
Posts: 13,412
Threads: 4
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: New Jersey
Scraper, after planing.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
Posts: 81
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2010
A scraper might not work very well. The spring wood, the lighter colored part is very soft compared to the darker summer wood. "Soft" woods do better when sanded. Or machine planed. S2S from the mill is pretty smooth.
Posts: 2,772
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: W. of Rainier, E. of Orcas
Are you working Doug fir or Hemlock? Are you restoring existing 'fir' trim? If hemlock do what you want. If you sand DF more than a few swipes, there will be a washboard surface caused by variable density (hardness) in the grain. If there is tearout from a plane, the iron is not sharp enough. I can't help with restoration ... other than buy a new house.
You could go through the performance grind of plane, scraper plane, hand scraper and paper up to 220 grit. But, given the amount of surfacing you plan, it might be time for the DeWalt 735. I have the the 734. And, this is your money I am playing with. .... Unless its a couple feet of wood, hand surfacing is for dummies. My ears are shot anyway. You will need to do the final 4 by hand, but it's a dream and your garden will love you.
Posts: 4,013
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2010
IF this trim is to be painted...prime and then sand it back until the trim is smooth, prime again, sand a bit, then paint..
The first sanding is just to remove the "high" spots, second one for final smoothness, before the paint..
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
Posts: 58
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Olympia, WA
Thanks for all the replies. I have gone the sanding route in the past with this trim and gotten a great result. I want to plane it as a exercise in practice hand planing. Working slowly towards a hand tools(plus bandsaw) shop. It is Fir not hemlock and won't be painted. I am going to finish it with teak oil. So far I can get reasonable smooth with planes and clean up where needed with a card scraper. My guess is I will go back to sanding it but I wanted to give planing a try.
John
Follow along on the instantgram: room_23_woodworks
Posts: 2,084
Threads: 1
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Mechanicsville, Md
Gotcha, now I understand. Question. If you are trying to replicate "older" molding, you might want to remember that those moldings had tool marks all over them. It might add some authenticity to your work.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.
Garry
Posts: 4,013
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2010
Barn wood siding, recycled into a table...
Shelf and the top...
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
