Posts: 13,412
Threads: 0
Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Texas
Mine drifts left if it isn't positioned correctly on the wheels. I must have it set where the gullet is in the center of the wheel.
Posts: 4,133
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Lawrence, KS
(07-12-2017, 03:25 PM)daddo Wrote: Mine drifts left if it isn't positioned correctly on the wheels. I must have it set where the gullet is in the center of the wheel.
Proper tension, bottom of gullet just in front of crown and guides adjusted close works very well for me on a Delta 14" clone (Grizzly) w/ 6" riser.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
Posts: 22
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2016
Thanks everyone. I've tried tensioning the blade a bit and while it definitely seemed to help, I think I'm going to head back up to Woodcraft this weekend and ask if they have a minute to show me what their saw is tensioned at and let me take a quick look at it, just to make sure everything is working as intended. I've also found that the whole saw vibrates a bit while running, which I think is due to the mobile base somehow rocking a little bit, so I'm going to take it off that and see if it helps.
Posts: 20,381
Threads: 4
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: CinDay
07-13-2017, 11:22 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-13-2017, 11:23 PM by Steve N.)
(07-12-2017, 02:43 PM)PedroOhare Wrote: But did you move it back down when you made these cuts? It is not really a guard, it is a guide. I just wanted to make sure all the bases are covered.
Pedro
Yes I see it as 2 problems. First your support of the blade at the cut is not even in sight, you need to keep the blade guide assembly down to within an inch or so of your work. It is adjustable simply for working with thicker wood. You mentioned snapping a blade. At low tension, with the guide support not down you probably have more odds of blade breakage than by over tightening the blade to the wheels. You certainly will get wild cuts like you have.
#2 is, Joe is correct, blade looks sloppy. Generally on most saws there is a gauge for blade tightening. If you have a 1/4" blade on, on most saws going up to 3/8" is just about getting the right amount of tension for a 1/4" blade. Also like Joe said you would really need to snug that puppy down hard to get worried about breakage from over tight.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
Posts: 20,381
Threads: 4
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: CinDay
07-13-2017, 11:29 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-13-2017, 11:31 PM by Steve N.)
(07-13-2017, 06:57 PM)Zhent Wrote: I've also found that the whole saw vibrates a bit while running,
Most likely the belt from motor to the drive wheel. What brand of saw is it? I have a cheapo HF 14" and it came with a hard rubber belt. With it on that saw would do the Shing-A-Ling right across the shop. I was thinking of entering it into a dance competition, but just bought a good quality link belt, it smoothed right out, and from that point I was able to start working on setting it up. Prior to that, there was too much movement to attempt anything approaching a serious cut
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
