GFCI Outlet Problem

[Roly]

Does that outlet feed through to another device ?  If so the load from a downstream device heated up a bad connection.   Roly

[Large Wooden Badger]

Down stream is a small beer fridge on one outlet on patio, and malibu low voltage lights on the other outlet.

[Roly]

Sounds like a bad connection on the burnt outlet.   Don't think you will have a future problem at that location.    I was not aluminum wire was it ?    If so special co/al devices are required.   Roly

[Large Wooden Badger]

nope copper.

[FloridaRetiree]

What kind of panel is it?

Some panels have known problems where the breakers don't trip and they either cook the panel or cook something down the line. Federal Pacific "Stab Lock" and Zinsco have quite a history of failure.

Our last home had a Cutler Hammer (sp?) 200 amp panel from 1978. I replaced the water heater breaker and a couple others within about a two year period. I would swap one breaker for another to test them.

 Yes. 

The original builder in this community used FP panels 30-some years ago.  Now the problems are arising and some are quite serious if not frustrating with failed breakers. 

Had ours replaced a couple years ago and understand competent building inspectors for new buyers will not approve a sale unless these panels are replaced.

[robert146]

Had a similar problem many years ago. Outlets downstream from a GFCI were constantly kicking out the breaker. Asked an electrician about the problem over a beer. He said circuit was probably wired through the GFCI and if it was, to pigtail it instead. I did and have had no trouble since (13 years).

[EricU]

if you pigtail, that says to me that the gfci isn't doing its job downstream.  They usually are rated to pass through well over their rated current

[Roly]

if you pigtail, that says to me that the gfci isn't doing its job downstream.  They usually are rated to pass through well over their rated current

Agreed.   So it depends on if those circuits downstream should be gfci protected or not.  Roly

[doobes]

This part is a bit distressing.  By any chance, is that receptacle one of the $1 builder specials with backstab connections that contractors love to use on new residential construction?  With the circuit passing through the receptacle rather than pigtailed?  A loose connection, or wimpy or fatigued (from heat cycles) contacts inside the receptacle, can cause a lot of heating and eventually cause much damage.  A CB too 'large' for the conductors can also be a problem, even though 15A receptacles are designed for 20A pass-through.  

The rest is a matter of verifying correct hot/neutral and line/load connection.  It's a bit puzzling that the light is on, but it won't support a load.  New GFCI's are supposed to not reset at all if line/load are reversed, though older ones may reset but not protect.

Yea buddy, I love me some of those backstab outlets.....


My entire house was wired with them when we moved in. You could toggle the power by stomping your foot on the ground..... Had my son swap them all out and to "hook-em".

To the OP, GFCI outlets do go bad. I've replaced a couple of them in my time because they just refused to reset.

[Large Wooden Badger]

As it turns out the "new" GFCI outlet I bought was defective. Once I replaced it everything was fine.

Thanks for the help

Cory