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Using a small mig welder with .30 wire and argon/co2 mix and 105 amps. The lens shade # is 10 and it's just to dark and I cannot see my joint line very well after the arc is struck, as a result the weld bead wonders off my intended path. Question is, what would be a better shade number to give good visibility during the weld and yet still be safe? The hood is a older auto darkening unit that is either selected on or off.
Regards,
Bill B
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I am a bit old school here. Welded for over 20 years with a 'manual' hood. #11 lens was my choice(#14 was recommended to view the eclipse). MIG and arc.
My current neighbor has an auto darkening helmet(for auto body work) and is having a lot of trouble with it.
My advice---get rid of the auto darkening and get a glass lens and sandwich between plastic lenses. No batteries needed.
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Newer autodarkening are variable darkness. Don't claim to have vast expeience but has worked well for me...
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The adjustable auto-dark covers work well. Start at 12 and work it down as you like.
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(08-24-2017, 12:54 PM)Bill Bob Wrote: .... cannot see my joint line very well after the arc is struck, ....... Question is, what would be a better shade number to give good visibility during the weld and yet still be safe?
Those are two different things. To protect your eyes I would not go lower than the 10 you have (and personally I would encourage you to do an 11 as another poster mentioned).
You can help by adding another strong light source. An incandescent, or cfl could add a different kind of light, but you really want the protection afforded from the wavelengths associated with arc welding.
My fixed helmet is an 11 and my auto is variable up to 13. I, too, can lose my line. I use white soapstone about a consistent inch away from my line. A steady hand and a little practice, and it is no different than following the joint line.
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I use soapstone for most work. A line next to the weld, but for real good marking, you might try
http://www.markal.com/welding-markers/si...s-pencils/
Like mentioned- good lighting helps.
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(08-24-2017, 06:13 PM)daddo Wrote: I use soapstone for most work. A line next to the weld, but for real good marking, you might try http://www.markal.com/welding-markers/si...s-pencils/
Like mentioned- good lighting helps.
OK, thanks to all. The lighting at the work station leaves a little to be desired. I do not do much welding with it and when I do it will be just a few short lines or attaching a bolt or small plug weld. Yesterday I had to laugh at myself after placing a new spool of wire in the gun. Did a practice spot and could not get rid of the splatter and there was no penetration. Thought I had a poor ground and checked that, then I thought I used flux core wire, then I remembered to turn on the gas mixture and all was well. LOL
Bill
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(08-24-2017, 12:54 PM)Bill Bob Wrote: The lens shade # is 10 and it's just to dark and I cannot see my joint line very well after the arc is struck,
It's actually not dark enough - generally 11 or 12 is recommended to protect your eyes.
I had similar issues, some of it is just learning technique. However, a 500 watt halogen worklight shining on the work makes it much brighter and easier to see.
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(08-25-2017, 10:01 AM)geek2me Wrote: It's actually not dark enough - generally 11 or 12 is recommended to protect your eyes.
I had similar issues, some of it is just learning technique. However, a 500 watt halogen worklight shining on the work makes it much brighter and easier to see.
If it gets any darker I cannot see the intended path at all. Just a darker arc.
Bill
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08-25-2017, 12:05 PM
(This post was last modified: 08-25-2017, 12:06 PM by geek2me.)
(08-25-2017, 11:29 AM)Bill Bob Wrote: If it gets any darker I cannot see the intended path at all. Just a darker arc.
Bill
The risk is that you damage your eyesight.
There is a chart on the miller site that shows what darkness is needed per current level
https://www.millerwelds.com/resources/ar...et-for-you
For me, the "tricks" were to use an auto-darkening helmet, use a bright halogen light, and to learn to weld without being able to see the work well. Since we mostly use stitch welding for MIG, not being able to see during the welding is almost a non-issue.
