plywood for drawer construction

[Joel H.]

You may be right but in such small measurements, I was always trying to maximize storage space and that would have taken more -- if I understand your suggestion correctly?

Could have used some sort of steel or aluminum support also I suppose?

Mainly, just should have built the bloody drawers to support a small utility vehicle.  

Actually John's suggestion wouldn't have taken anymore space.  Just put the stiffener in the middle of the drawer in the same slot you've cut for the ply bottom to slip into.  Cut two pieces of ply (instead of one) to fit from the stiffener to the sides.  With smaller pieces of ply and the stiffener in the middle, the strength would be significantly more.

I've used it on wide deep drawers and have no problem with weight or sagging.

HTH, Joel

[Mike in kc]

FWIW I agree with  Ralph and Frank.   I usually use the same joinery as in the video, and so far as equipment is concerned, any table saw, set up with a good fence, is all thats needed.   Careful setup is your key to success. 

If drawer width is you primary concern, make the parts with the dado your front and rear pieces, the sides will fall into place.

If possible, try to do each step as a batch as it makes the milling and assembly go faster and easier.

[Hank Knight]

I've built more drawers from BB plywood than with solid wood. Like others, I don't understand why the thickness of the plywood is critical. I use 1/2" BB ply for most drawer sides and 1/4" BB ply for bottoms. If the drawer is large or will hold heavy stuff (like some of my shop drawers), I use 5/8" BB ply for sides and make the bottoms of 3/8" BB ply. I cut the joinery for the drawer box corners with a lock miter bit in the router table because it's what I have and it makes for easy assembly and clamping, and I glue the bottom into the sides for a bomb-proof drawer box. Interestingly, I find that BB plywood is pretty faithful to the advertised dimensions. My 1/4" bottoms always fit perfectly into grooves cut with a 1/4" router bit or dado blade on the TS. Same with the 3/8" stock. If it's a little snug, a swipe or two with a sanding block on the bottom edges takes care of the problem. I assume the 1/2" BB ply is also pretty close to 1/2" thick, but I haven't measured it.

[ez-duzit]

...Just put the stiffener in the middle of the drawer in the same slot you've cut for the ply bottom to slip into.  Cut two pieces of ply (instead of one) to fit from the stiffener to the sides.  With smaller pieces of ply and the stiffener in the middle, the strength would be significantly more...

I have used a one-piece bottom of 3/16" aluminum for extra-wide drawers carrying heavy loads.

[FloridaRetiree]

I have used a one-piece bottom of 3/16" aluminum for extra-wide drawers carrying heavy loads.

Good idea I never thought of.

[Steve N]

In point of fact, material is rarely exactly the thickness you want, there is always a tolerance.

Not said it matters little what the thickness is, AS LONG AS at least the sides, and the back are the same thickness, fronts can vary depending on 1/2 blind flush fit, or box with false fronts. You CAN make them of all different dimensions, but it adds a lot of work you don't really want to do. Same size on the basic box parts makes for easy work. Usually with plywood drawers it is the sides and backs that are ply, and most use solid wood for fronts, or at least something veneered. Most go on the assumption the sides, and backs are the same thickness from the same sheet of ply.

[Cooler]

I use poplar.  The premium cabinets I see all use something similar.  It would enhance re-sale value of your home if you matched that in my opinion.

(And self-closing hardware while you are at it.)

[Stwood_]

I thought all 1/2" BB ply was 1/2". I have 5-6 sheets in the shop that is a true 1/2"