Posts: 917
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2008
What type of blde should I USE to cUT plexiglass on a taiBlesaw?
Posts: 13,412
Threads: 0
Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Texas
The best is a 80 tooth (with 10" blade) sharp carbide blade- slower and constant rate of feed. If it's real thin, I use flat blocks to support it close to the blade through the cut.
I have used a 60 tooth blade in a pinch.
Posts: 2,840
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Western NY
(10-05-2017, 01:50 PM)Turner52 Wrote: What type of blde should I USE to cUT plexiglass on a taiBlesaw?
I like this one. Arbor size is the same for skill style circular say as it is for table saw. Being a smaller diameter, the teeth are moving slower too. I don't know how much difference that makes. The biggest difference for me is the price. Acrylic is slightly harder on the blades than hardwood.
![[Image: 51DLNDXlViL.jpg]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51DLNDXlViL.jpg)
I tried not believing. That did not work, so now I just believe
Posts: 18,482
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Milwaukee area
I think technically they suggest a blade with neg. rake, less grabby. You can go to freud's website and find out for sure.
Posts: 24,331
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2002
Location: Elizabethtown, KY
Biggest problem I've had cutting acrylic is melting chips in the kerf.
I looked at my blade when I was cutting some once and there was a red ring where chips he stuck in the zero-clearance insert and were rubbing on the blade
Acrylic makes "chips" that will fly so wear glasses.
Polycarbonate (lexan) makes more stringy waste but jamming is still an issue
Good luck and be careful. It's neat stuff to work with -- within it's limits!
"Truth is a highway leading to freedom" --Kris Kristofferson
Wild Turkey
We may see the writing on the wall, but all we do is criticize the handwriting.
(joined 10/1999)
Posts: 691
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2003
(10-05-2017, 07:58 PM)Wild Turkey Wrote: Biggest problem I've had cutting acrylic is melting chips in the kerf.
I looked at my blade when I was cutting some once and there was a red ring where chips he stuck in the zero-clearance insert and were rubbing on the blade
Acrylic makes "chips" that will fly so wear glasses.
Polycarbonate (lexan) makes more stringy waste but jamming is still an issue
Good luck and be careful. It's neat stuff to work with -- within it's limits!
There is a specific tooth grind for PLexy. I believe it's called a ATB or triple chip. I have one at home and will check later today.
Posts: 61
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2016
i use a 60 tooth freud blade on the ts. My ts is an 8" Craftsman saw. The secret is slow & easy. I use a 1" x 4" the length of the saw table on top of the plexiglas left of the blade to keep the plexi flat on the table.
Sawdust703
head sawdust maker
Posts: 589
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2017
Location: Marina del Rey
(10-06-2017, 07:34 AM)castguy2003 Wrote: There is a specific tooth grind for PLexy...
This, a modified triple chip grind. Actually works well on wood, too.
Wood is good.
Posts: 917
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2008
Thanks for all of the replies. Used a 60 tooth carbide and no problems.
Posts: 1,030
Threads: 3
Joined: Jun 2011
Location: N. Cincy inside the loop
Don't know if this works with tablesaws, but with my scroll saw I found that taping both sides (over and under) of the cut line with clear packaging tape helped eliminate the problem of melting and re-fusing. The tape acts as a lubricant, keeping the temperature down.
