Looking for a jigsaw...suggestions?

[KingwoodFan1989]

On my current project, I have the need to cut down large sheet goods as well as cutting down rough boards to make them more manageable to run them through my jointer and planer. I've thought about it, and trying to cut down 10' long Brazilian Cherry boards just won't work in my current shop space (the third bay of a 3-car garage). Plus cutting down really wide stuff by hand is a pain and takes too long for my tastes. Thus, I thought I'd look at jigsaws since I could also use that for roughing out shapes. I started looking on Amazon, but I thought I'd ask on here as well. What is a good jigsaw for making rough cuts (both in sizing down and cutting out shapes)? I honestly don't care if it's corded or not. Heck, those seem to be more affordable to me anyway, and with my current budget, I'd like to spend as little as possible without settling for a crappy tool that I'd outgrow quickly. 

What are some good, affordable jigsaws? Thanks!

[Dennis Puskar]

Maybe a reciprocating saw like Milwaukee or Dewalt, etc would be a better choice.

[Scott W]

Sounds to me like you would benefit more from a circular saw then maybe a jugsaw.

I have and use a Bosch barrel grip.

[MstrCarpenter]

Sounds to me like you would benefit more from a circular saw then maybe a jugsaw.

I have and use a Bosch barrel grip.

I agree. If you go for a jig saw too, look for power and orbital cutting in a pro model.

[Steve N]

For breakdown I would not suggest a jigsaw, too slow, even with the best blades you will have more waste as the cut line won't be straight, at least not easily so. I would suggest a circular saw, and a cutting shoe, easily made from plywood scrap.

   


That is a poor mans track saw, and taking a little care you can make crisp quality cuts in sheet goods, or on stock. As you can see you can make long ones, or shorties for crosscuts. On a crosscut, attach a cleat square to the length, so you are making a crosscut at 90* Easily and quickly made. Start with a piece of plywood larger than the measure from your saws blade, to it's flat edged side. This you run against a cleat the length of the board. On the other side of the cleat, all you need is enough room to put a C Clamp on to hold it in place, and NOT interfere with the travel of the saw down the chute. These appear all square, however you could have it start from an triangular piece of plywood, you make the distance of the jig on the cut side, the first time you run the saw down the chute. From there on, that is the spot you use as your cut mark. Line that edge up with the line you want to cut, clamp it so you don't get movement, make the cut, and every time the blade goes exactly where you know it is going to. The only thing with these is you must hold the flat edge of the saw TIGHT against the cleat. In another world that is a track saw.

Grizzly sells a low priced track saw. I have never held one, so I cannot give a positive, or negative review. I own a DeWalt track saw, and it is a tool in it's own class, and breaks down stock better than anything on the face of the earth. What I have shown you here is capable of the same cuts, it just take a bit longer.

[Cooler]

For breakdown I would not suggest a jigsaw, too slow, even with the best blades you will have more waste as the cut line won't be straight, at least not easily so. I would suggest a circular saw, and a cutting shoe, easily made from plywood scrap.




That is a poor mans track saw, and taking a little care you can make crisp quality cuts in sheet goods, or on stock. As you can see you can make long ones, or shorties for crosscuts. On a crosscut, attach a cleat square to the length, so you are making a crosscut at 90* Easily and quickly made. Start with a piece of plywood larger than the measure from your saws blade, to it's flat edged side. This you run against a cleat the length of the board. On the other side of the cleat, all you need is enough room to put a C Clamp on to hold it in place, and NOT interfere with the travel of the saw down the chute. These appear all square, however you could have it start from an triangular piece of plywood, you make the distance of the jig on the cut side, the first time you run the saw down the chute. From there on, that is the spot you use as your cut mark. Line that edge up with the line you want to cut, clamp it so you don't get movement, make the cut, and every time the blade goes exactly where you know it is going to. The only thing with these is you must hold the flat edge of the saw TIGHT against the cleat. In another world that is a track saw.

Grizzly sells a low priced track saw. I have never held one, so I cannot give a positive, or negative review. I own a DeWalt track saw, and it is a tool in it's own class, and breaks down stock better than anything on the face of the earth. What I have shown you here is capable of the same cuts, it just take a bit longer.

  I've made a few of these.  They work well if you pay attention while sawing.  But you need to make a new one for each saw blade unless you are using the identical blade each time.  

Most recently I used one (with a very fine tipped carbide blade) to cut the end of a butcher block counter top so that I could joint it at right angles to another length.  It worked fine.  I make the guides over wide and then trim it with the actual saw/blade combination I am planning on using.  Not only does this give accurate cuts, it eliminates tear-out on the piece beneath the guide.  With some planning your exposed cuts can be made under the guide.

[kurt18947]

  I've made a few of these.  They work well if you pay attention while sawing.  But you need to make a new one for each saw blade unless you are using the identical blade each time.  

Most recently I used one (with a very fine tipped carbide blade) to cut the end of a butcher block counter top so that I could joint it at right angles to another length.  It worked fine.  I make the guides over wide and then trim it with the actual saw/blade combination I am planning on using.  Not only does this give accurate cuts, it eliminates tear-out on the piece beneath the guide.  With some planning your exposed cuts can be made under the guide.

Agreed. I've never used a track saw and those who have used both say the track saw is noticeably better. A well tuned circle saw - edge of the base exactly parallel to the blade - and a good quality blade does pretty well. I have a couple saw guides that fit my PC 314 trim saw and they work very well. I used 1/8" hardboard for a base so as not to lose too much cutting depth. A more powerful saw would be faster but I really like the long narrow base of the PC314 and I use them infrequently so speed is not that much of an issue. A worm drive saw might work well too though I don't have one of those. The trick is to keep the base tracking straight against the fence.

[Tapper]

On my current project, I have the need to cut down large sheet goods as well as cutting down rough boards to make them more manageable to run them through my jointer and planer. I've thought about it, and trying to cut down 10' long Brazilian Cherry boards just won't work in my current shop space (the third bay of a 3-car garage). Plus cutting down really wide stuff by hand is a pain and takes too long for my tastes. Thus, I thought I'd look at jigsaws since I could also use that for roughing out shapes. I started looking on Amazon, but I thought I'd ask on here as well. What is a good jigsaw for making rough cuts (both in sizing down and cutting out shapes)? I honestly don't care if it's corded or not. Heck, those seem to be more affordable to me anyway, and with my current budget, I'd like to spend as little as possible without settling for a crappy tool that I'd outgrow quickly. 

What are some good, affordable jigsaws? Thanks!

Jigsaws are great, handy tools that can used for many tasks in the shop. I too occasionally use my jigsaw to break down larger material. It is quick and very safe to use, i.e. typically no kickback or binding. The only name for me in jigsaws is Bosch. I have a top handle; some like the barrel grip - just a personal preference.

I found mine on Ebay several years ago and it is a wonderful tool. Powerful, safe and ergonomically comfortable to use. Of course Bosch blades are the standard in the industry.

Good luck,

Doug

[Phil Thien]

I sold my Bosch barrel grip and got a cordless Ryobi 18v. That thing is so handy.

[CARYinWA]

The only name for me in jigsaws is Bosch. 

My thoughts also.