Routing an address sign

[Phydeaux]

I used the method with a paper pattern from a computer printout and carbon paper to freehand rout  a fairly big sign. I was satisfied with the result.

[jammer]

When I want oversized letters, I open up Microsoft word, use the program to make the letters on typing paper the size I want them, even if it only makes one or two letters per sheet of paper.  Tape the pages together to form the template, then transfer the design to the wood with carbon paper or a scratch awl.

A trick someone showed me once, was to CUT the edges of the letters with an exacto-knife, then back over the same cut again carefully to make it deeper.  Then, undercut to the cut, from inside to outside, with a chisel, then straight down with the chisel, beveled edge facing IN.  THEN route to that defined edge.  Makes it easier to end up with a clean, sharp edge, seems like a lot of prep work, but... it works.

I've used this approach before to freehand a router around a "scribed" pattern.  I usually start by going around the pattern coming within 1/16" of the line, then go back and finish up the cut.  scribing before hand allows the cut edges to come off cleanly

[BrokenOlMarine]

One other technique that I like to use for variety is to transfer your lettering, then take some chalk and go over the areas of the lettering to make them more visible... cut your borders lightly with the exacto, then using a pointed bit, cut vertical lines as deep as you like, or cut away from the letters in a random pattern to the edges of the borders.  This will make the raised letters look hand carved.  Paint a darker stain into the grooves left by the VEE bit, and use a lighter stain on the raised border and the lettering.  Finish as desired.

   

This was a very early attempt at the technique, done in 1993 or 94 as a retirement gift for a Mustang Captain in the Corps.  He loved it, which was all that mattered to me.

[DaveBozeman]

Thanks all. One more followup, after I get the letters finished, I want to paint them black for contrast. But I don't want the paint to wick outside the letter areas. Any special paint or trick for that?

[Cecil]

One other technique that I like to use for variety is to transfer your lettering, then take some chalk and go over the areas of the lettering to make them more visible... cut your borders lightly with the exacto, then using a pointed bit, cut vertical lines as deep as you like, or cut away from the letters in a random pattern to the edges of the borders.  This will make the raised letters look hand carved.  Paint a darker stain into the grooves left by the VEE bit, and use a lighter stain on the raised border and the lettering.  Finish as desired.



This was a very early attempt at the technique, done in 1993 or 94 as a retirement gift for a Mustang Captain in the Corps.  He loved it, which was all that mattered to me.

I glued the letters (paper print out) to the sign board and routed through them.  I sprayed everything.  Then I scrapped off the paper and ran the board through the drum sander, or used the belt sander. 

I painted the letters but left the board natural.  If I tried to stain the board, the glue may have sealed the board and interfered with the staining process.  However, since I ran it through the drum sander a couple of times, I don't think it would have.

[BrokenOlMarine]

Dave,
To keep the black paint from wicking, seal the entire sign before you paint your letters. If you are going to stain the rest of the sign, stain the entire thing before you seal!
When you are happy with the stain, seal the sign with a couple coats of clear finish of your choice. Once dry, carefully paint your letters black. No bleeding, AND, if you slip and go outside the lines with the clear underneath - a quick wipe should fix your error. Once you are satisfied with the coverage of the black.. apply another coat or three of clear. (After all, the sign will be outdoors... don't forget the back, lol)

[Richard D.]

Thanks all.  One more followup, after I get the letters finished, I want to paint them black for contrast. But I don't want the paint to wick outside the letter areas.  Any special paint or trick for that?

Don't sand the face until you paint the inside of the letters, that way any overspray will get sanded off. Pre-seal with shellac. Clear coat everything is the easiest, exterior paint with no pigment would be an option. Don't get to crazy, it's not fine woodworking.

[DaveBozeman]

Thanks again..

[DaveBozeman]

Thanks for all the suggestions, I thought hard about making a template and route, but the font I used for the 4 and 0, would have caused me issues, so I went with the stencil and cut approach.

I used a 22" x 12" piece of a laminated fir beam that was waste from my basement supporting the main floor in the house being built.
I ended up making a stencil in Word, and taping together the numbers. (I couldn't find carbon paper) They came out 8" high by 18".
I cut out the numbers from the sheet, taped it to the wood, and spray painted the stencil, and used a chisel to outline the numbers.
Used a 1/4" bit and free-handed the inside of the numbers to get a lot of material out
Used the chisel again to clean it up a little, sanded the edges smooth for the bearing in the next step
Then used a small pattern bit and bumped it against the inside edges of the numbers. It worked really well
(Amana Tool 45475-S Carbide Tipped Dado Clean Out 3/8 D x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Inch SHK w/ Upper Ball Bearing Router Bit)
Put on a coat of spar varnish over the complete block (which took about 3+ days to dry each side)
Now, I just painted the inside of the numbers.
I'll take a section of a tree stump and cut out a notch for this to set into.

Dave

[daddo]

I had smaller letter and number templates, but was able to draw a series of lines on the work and copy by hand, the style.

I made raised letters by carefully hand routing the letters edges at the prescribed depth then chiseling the edges for the depth.

 Freehand routing can be done- it just takes a steady hand and a sharp bit and the right feed directions. I found it best to climb the cut when routing the letter/numbers.