Workbench Thickness
#18
I built the Frank Klausz scandinavian bench. 

The field is 2 1/2" and the front apron/dog hole is 4 1/2 wide X 4" thick.

It is very stout.

Even with this, I do my chiselling with the piece clamped right over the leg.
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#19
I believe you can get very functional hardware to work with any bench thickness within reason. So 1" to 4" range.

If you are having trouble with the bench skittering away, racking, or other problems associated with a weak, thin, or not strong enough structure you can fix that with more wood. If you are happy with your current bench size, and find that it is strong enough for hand tool work, spend the money on beer or more wood, maybe tools. Probably beer though
Big Grin

If I had a functional bench, and was looking to, let's say do DT's by hand, I'd add more wood in the form of a Moxon vice. They are my most used bench device, after a bench hook.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#20
(12-06-2017, 06:50 PM)Edwin Hackleman Wrote: 2" thick will work for the top. Build up the sides and ends for the vises that overhang out up to 18". Mine do:

Late to the party but, short answer is 2.25" to 3" range is my personal opinion. I have a couple of Jorgy ( USA ) bench vises and a couple of Gramercy hold downs. The Jorgys are meant to mount to a 2.25" thick top as I recall. My tops are 3" thick and I wound up mortising my vise into the bottom to avoid cracking, racking, etc. toward the top of the vise. My wood jaws are only 1" thick. Anyway, best of luck with the bench.
BontzSawWorks.net
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#21
(12-07-2017, 05:41 PM)Steve N Wrote: I believe you can get very functional hardware to work with any bench thickness within reason. So 1" to 4" range.

I typed this when I was tired. I should point out that with small sized hold downs, vices, and other bench accessories you can use them on either a small bench, or a massive one. With large hardware you will likely need to have a large bench to be able to use the hardware. So if you already own large vises, hold downs, etc your only way to use them will either be by making another bigger bench, or adding to the bench you are already happy with. Obviously this is going to be dictated by how much room you have, but in your position, if I had a workbench I liked, but had used it as a work table for power tools, finishing and project assembly, I would leave it alone. Then I would design and build a heavier bench for hand tool work. Sounds like you will be what we call a "blended woodworker" using both hand, and power tools, and heavier power equipment.

If that is what you are planning, think about what you want to do with hand tools? If your plan is to go old school and use them entirely, and sell off your power tools than you need a King sized, takes all comers hand tool bench, or you won't be happy. If you plan to stay blended, and maybe just dabble with some hand cut DT's, but not a lot of prepping wood by hand tools (hand planes versus planer/jointer, sawing by hand rather than a TS, BS, Jig saw), a smaller, but slightly heavier bench would work fine because you will just be working with parts of the whole project rather than making everything on the bench.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#22
The thicker the better IMO.  Better yet, have a very substantial and solid base.  When chopping with a chisel for example, if the bench is not completely solid, the piece bounces, and chiseling is much more difficult.
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#23
Maybe some pieces of microlam incorporated as stringers to help support the top ?
My .02
Karl




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#24
(12-06-2017, 06:50 PM)Edwin Hackleman Wrote: 2" thick will work for the top. Build up the sides and ends for the vises that overhang out up to 18". Mine do:

Hey - nice collection of Still saws.
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