Joints for drawers made with prefinished plywood.

[photobug]

I have some 5/8 prefinished Birch Plywood I intend to make a large kitchen drawer with.  This will be  fairly large drawer and may be holding a heavy load.  I am concerned about the prefinished surface affecting the joint integrity.  I would appreciate suggestions on a joint best for prefinished plywood.

I have a drawer joint router bit I have yet to use.  I would prefer to do that or come up with a jig or a setup that will allow all cuts to be made with one setup.

[Stwood_]

Dovetail
Finger joint
Rabbit
Where the finish would contact wood, just sand/scrap the finish off so the glue will adhere

[Splinter Puller]

Dovetail
Finger joint
Rabbit
Where the finish would contact wood, just sand/scrap the finish off so the glue will adhere

I would go with a dovetail or finger joint.  The problem is that the prefinished plywood I have used has the most splinter prone finish I have ever seen.  I'd be very careful of tear out when using a dovetail or finger joint jig.   A simpler option would be to dado off the finish and use a locked rabbet drawer joint.  This joint would have better splinter control on the prefinished faces.   With modern glue and plywood I suspect they would be strong enough over the long haul too.

[Stwood_]

I would go with a dovetail or finger joint.  The problem is that the prefinished plywood I have used has the most splinter prone finish I have ever seen.  I'd be very careful of tear out when using a dovetail or finger joint jig.   A simpler option would be to dado off the finish and use a locked rabbet drawer joint.  This joint would have better splinter control on the prefinished faces.   With modern glue and plywood I suspect they would be strong enough over the long haul too.

I've used premade/prefinished drawer side material (maple ply) for 20 years. Dovetails and finger joints are no problem as long as you use a backer board correctly

[KingwoodFan1989]

Definitely use dovetails. I think with pre-finished you should go with a router and jig rather than hand cut unless you're REALLY good at protecting the surface of that pre-finished stuff. Years ago, I helped out on my younger brother's Eagle Scout project, and IIRC we used pre-finished wood with the drawers on the carts we built (long story short, they were for the Children's Hospital in Oakland, CA, where my brother had received successful cancer treatment in 2006-2007). I even helped cut the dovetails for them, and we used a router for that. Turned out great!

[rwe2156]

I don't like doing dt's in plywood because of the splintering.  Doable, but too much aggravation for me.

For a utility drawer like a kitchen, I think dt's are highly overrated, anyway.

Personally, I think rabbets pinned with 1/8" dowels look fine.

[Cooler]

The rear panel does not get stressed and almost any joint will hold up.  The front is more critical.  I made some shop drawers about 10 years ago using pocket screws (3 per side in the front).  The pocket screws are stressed in shear so it should be quite strong.  My heavily laden shop drawers prove that out.  

It is hidden behind a false front on a drawer.  

Plenty of people are apparently using this system.  Take a peek:  https://www.google.com/search?q=kreg+jig...62#imgrc=_

Kreg publishes a cabinet making booklet:  https://www.kregtool.com/webres/Files/ba...ooklet.pdf

Page 30 shows the drawer construction.

That all said, I use through dovetails in 3/4" poplar for my cabinet drawers in the kitchen.  But probably to appease my sense of craftsmanship more than anything else.

I've also made drawers using dowels.  The easy way is to use finish screws to glue and assemble the drawer.  After the glue sets, back out the screws and drill out a hole to fit your dowels.  Insert the dowel and trim.  Indent the dowels by squeezing them with a pair of pliers several times (except for the very top that has to fit neatly.  The indents will allow the glue to flow and the wood will expand with exposure to the moisture in the glue.

Butt joints and no clamps make this a fast way to build drawers.

[photobug]

Yes the drawer will have a false front on it.

I do have a dovetail jig but it only has  about 12" capacity and the drawer will be wider.  I have plans for a finger joint jig, I should finally build.  My other option would be to trim off the UV coated surface where the joints occur and do a locked rabbet joint.

Anyone have suggestions on a jig or setup for a locked rabbet joint?

[Cooler]

Yes the drawer will have a false front on it.

I do have a dovetail jig but it only has  about 12" capacity and the drawer will be wider.  I have plans for a finger joint jig, I should finally build.  My other option would be to trim off the UV coated surface where the joints occur and do a locked rabbet joint.

Anyone have suggestions on a jig or setup for a locked rabbet joint?

I have one of those and the setup took forever.  If I had dozens of drawers to build it might be worthwhile.  Otherwise I would definitely choose another joint.  

I guess if you do this all the time you can get it done faster.  But I doubt I'd ever get the setup done in the time it takes to make a dovetail joint.

[Philip1231]

I made a kitchen full of large drawers about 18 years ago: 1/2" baltic birch joined with biscuits: not a single joint failure after daily heavy use.  Ball bearings drawer slides reduce the need for traditional drawer joinery (reduced racking forces, etc.).

I have some 5/8 prefinished Birch Plywood I intend to make a large kitchen drawer with.  This will be  fairly large drawer and may be holding a heavy load.  I am concerned about the prefinished surface affecting the joint integrity.  I would appreciate suggestions on a joint best for prefinished plywood.

I have a drawer joint router bit I have yet to use.  I would prefer to do that or come up with a jig or a setup that will allow all cuts to be made with one setup.