Buffing with a ROS

[Peter Tremblay]

Peter, I can't tell you how well a ROS will buff a wood finish but I can tell you there is a growing movement where they are being used in body-shops. A couple words of caution... but at a low speed so the friction doesn't heat your finish at all. A heated finish won't buff, it will soften the finish. Soft finishes won't buff well. Buff in a cool place out of direct sunlight. I use a High Speed, variable DeWalt buffer but I set it to it's lowest speed (1000rpm) and only pull the trigger about half way. My best guess is that I'm buffing at 600 rpm. A ROS has lower rpm but is still more aggressive because if it's violent random nature. Be careful and don't press too hard. Just use the weight of the sander. BTW, I use a Proter Cable right angle ROS for sanding and buffing. I use a 5" and 6" disc. 5" "Stick-It and 6" Hook-It. I use the 6" for buffing. Again, It's more aggressive than a traditional circular buffer, go easy.

Thanks, Neil.

I'll do that.

[MichaelMouse]

Peter, I can't tell you how well a ROS will buff a wood finish but I can tell you there is a growing movement where they are being used in body-shops. A couple words of caution... but at a low speed so the friction doesn't heat your finish at all. A heated finish won't buff, it will soften the finish. Soft finishes won't buff well. Buff in a cool place out of direct sunlight. I use a High Speed, variable DeWalt buffer but I set it to it's lowest speed (1000rpm) and only pull the trigger about half way. My best guess is that I'm buffing at 600 rpm. A ROS has lower rpm but is still more aggressive because if it's violent random nature. Be careful and don't press too hard. Just use the weight of the sander. BTW, I use a Proter Cable right angle ROS for sanding and buffing. I use a 5" and 6" disc. 5" "Stick-It and 6" Hook-It. I use the 6" for buffing. Again, It's more aggressive than a traditional circular buffer, go easy.

Friction, and heat of friction is independent of rotational (surface) velocity.  Pressure and coefficient of friction are the governing factors.  Which is why they tell you everywhere in the instruction books not to press, but allow only the weight of the sander to do the job.

Buff, or in coarser circumstances, grind at whatever surface velocity you care, just keep the pressure off, and keep cleaning buildup so as to keep the coefficient of friction low.

[Timberwolf]

[quote='Peter Tremblay' pid='7578223' dateline='1516214186']
Hello all,

I was wondering if anyone ever uses their random orbit sander to buff out a top coat, especially a wax finish?

If so what do you use for a buffer?

I recently tried a product called Rubio Monocoat and it recommends being buffed with a white abrasive pad and then maybe a tarry towel like pad.

I got a white pad from the hardware store and stuck that to my ROS and I'm not sure it worked all that well.  It was also very hard to get the white stuff out of the velcro hooks at the bottom of the ROS.

I like the ease of this finish but I haven't quite figured out how to buff it yet.  

I ended up doing it by hand with a bunch of paper show towels.
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The only downside I have experienced using an ROS for buffing, Peter, is sometimes they can leave very small 'circles" that are visible under certain light conditions. If the circles are caused by the waxed surface, straight line hand buffing after the ROS can usually remove them.