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(01-29-2018, 04:14 PM)Rob Young Wrote: The Herrli video is worth a watch. Tod is a bit more pragmatic about material choices than Larry. And they have different methods for fabricating the body.
Herrli has two videos, the older one is on H&R planes, the newer one is building a complex moulder.
Thanks for the input, Rob. I'll give it a shot.
I'm thinking on material (post proof of concept) I'll go with either quartersawn beech or cherry, which ever I can procure first. I've quite a bunch of cherry and walnut scraps to practice on figuring out technique.
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(01-29-2018, 04:54 PM)Rick Barton Wrote: All I have at present is the standard BurnzOmatic MAPP torch for sweating copper.
Rick, that will work fine. I used just one torch and had no problems making a pair of h & r's. You won't need the firebricks for the smaller planes, but they will come in handy for the larger blades. The largest I have done is a 1/4 inch thick plane blade that was 2 1/4 inches wide - for that I just used two torches and the stacked firebricks, and that is a ton more metal than you will be using. I would practice a few times just to get the movements right. If you watch Forged in Fire, ( on the History Channel ) in the second half of the show they go to their home forges, and some are really low tech, but you often see them practice the steps of taking the iron out of the flame and getting it in to the oil before it cools too much - though of course they are working with a lot more steel than we do.
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(01-29-2018, 09:25 PM)barryvabeach Wrote: Rick, that will work fine. I used just one torch and had no problems making a pair of h & r's. You won't need the firebricks for the smaller planes, but they will come in handy for the larger blades. The largest I have done is a 1/4 inch thick plane blade that was 2 1/4 inches wide - for that I just used two torches and the stacked firebricks, and that is a ton more metal than you will be using. I would practice a few times just to get the movements right. If you watch Forged in Fire, ( on the History Channel ) in the second half of the show they go to their home forges, and some are really low tech, but you often see them practice the steps of taking the iron out of the flame and getting it in to the oil before it cools too much - though of course they are working with a lot more steel than we do.
I think next time I drive past Midwest Block I'll swing in and pick up some fire brick. Now that I think about it I've a 2nd torch stashed somewhere too.
Thanks for the input Barry.
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I ordered the DVD from LN. Not sure if I'll get around to building one, but I want to watch it. I'm thinking of building a body and get a blade already ground. Quite a bit more expensive, but still, not that bad. I could build a set of 8 pairs, 4,6,8,10,12, 13, 15 and 17 for about $700 in blades. One of the local lumber stores just started stocking European beech at a good price. We'll see.
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(01-30-2018, 07:52 PM)Mike77 Wrote: I ordered the DVD from LN. Not sure if I'll get around to building one, but I want to watch it. I'm thinking of building a body and get a blade already ground. Quite a bit more expensive, but still, not that bad. I could build a set of 8 pairs, 4,6,8,10,12, 13, 15 and 17 for about $700 in blades. One of the local lumber stores just started stocking European beech at a good price. We'll see.
Mike, if the cost of the blades were $700, and then you add in the lumber, it would be cheaper to buy a set from one of the online dealers. Build a pair if you want to for the experience of it ( which is what I did), but I think you will realize that you will spend a ton of time trying to build 8 pairs. Plus, if you buy a set and decide later you don't use them and want to resell them, you can probably do okay on the resale. It will be tougher selling home made planes.
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(01-30-2018, 08:26 PM)barryvabeach Wrote: Mike, if the cost of the blades were $700, and then you add in the lumber, it would be cheaper to buy a set from one of the online dealers. Build a pair if you want to for the experience of it ( which is what I did), but I think you will realize that you will spend a ton of time trying to build 8 pairs. Plus, if you buy a set and decide later you don't use them and want to resell them, you can probably do okay on the resale. It will be tougher selling home made planes.
I can get most of the hollows and rounds I will ever use from Lee Valley. A set of 12 only costs $298. They're a Japanese style plane. If I build any, it will be for the fun of it and cost will be secondary.
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(01-30-2018, 11:01 PM)Mike77 Wrote: I can get most of the hollows and rounds I will ever use from Lee Valley. A set of 12 only costs $298. They're a Japanese style plane. If I build any, it will be for the fun of it and cost will be secondary.
Mike, while I love Lee Valley, the H & R's they sell aren't like the traditional H & R's. The Asian ones have stepped bottoms, so , IMO, they are not as useful as a traditional western plane, which do not have depth stops on the bottom.
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(01-31-2018, 07:00 AM)barryvabeach Wrote: Mike, while I love Lee Valley, the H & R's they sell aren't like the traditional H & R's. The Asian ones have stepped bottoms, so , IMO, they are not as useful as a traditional western plane, which do not have depth stops on the bottom.
Yes, that could be a problem. One of the next projects I'm going to be working on, (and I hoped to use mostly hand tools) is some night stands that match a dresser I built. They have ogee bracket feet and I planned on using a large moulding plane to cut the cove.
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(01-30-2018, 07:52 PM)Mike77 Wrote: I ordered the DVD from LN. Not sure if I'll get around to building one, but I want to watch it. I'm thinking of building a body and get a blade already ground. Quite a bit more expensive, but still, not that bad. I could build a set of 8 pairs, 4,6,8,10,12, 13, 15 and 17 for about $700 in blades. One of the local lumber stores just started stocking European beech at a good price. We'll see.
Even if you decide to rehab antique planes there's a ton of info on Larry's dvd that will be helpful. There's a good chance many of the wedges will need re-bedded, some of the soles will be wonkey and most of the irons will need at least some attention.
Mike, if you don't already, following Matt Bickford's blog is very informative.
http://musingsfrombigpink.blogspot.com/
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Or...just get the parts for a Stanley 45 to do hollow and rounds....#4-#12 sizes.
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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