I've got a wonderful old Delta scroll saw that allows me to use a regular scroll saw blade (attached to both top and bottom blade mounts) or something more like a jigsaw blade (attached only to the bottom mount). In either case, the blade guide still helps keep the blade stable. I love the "jig saw" feature, since it lets me make inside cuts without having to remove the blade. The saw also has variable speed via v-pulleys that adjust with a crank. I'd like to update my saw to a lighter, more modern version, but I haven't found anything else that has the "jig saw" feature. Any ideas?
02-14-2018, 08:59 AM (This post was last modified: 02-14-2018, 09:02 AM by tomsteve.)
"but I haven't found anything else that has the "jig saw" feature. Any ideas?"
all scroll saws have the "jig saw" feature. delta,dewalt, excallliber, hawk, RBI, jet- just a few of the higher end ones.
theres many different blade options for them,too.
ive made a jillion internal cuts on my scrollsaws over the years. it isnt that bad to set the blade for each cut- pinless blades rock
(02-14-2018, 08:59 AM)tomsteve Wrote: "but I haven't found anything else that has the "jig saw" feature. Any ideas?"
all scroll saws have the "jig saw" feature. delta,dewalt, excallliber, hawk, RBI, jet- just a few of the higher end ones.
I interpreted the description of his saw to mean that, as well as a standard scroll saw blade, it can use a saber saw type blade, that only attaches on the bottom. If that is correct, I've never seen one that can do both.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?
When I decided to upgrade my 1943-vintage Power King with a gently used RBI Hawk, I chose to keep the old one to use as a sander and that has worked out well for me. I think your best solution is to keep both.
We do segmented turning, not because it is easy, but because it is hard.
Aside from the weight, what will you get from a more modern version that you don't have in your current saw? I have a modern Dremel. It is decent, but it will not accept a saber saw blade as you describe. It also doesn't have a light.
Modern scroll saws, at least the better ones, are designed primarily to cut fine, detailed fretwork and/or tight, intricate curves, in relatively thin material. The better scroll saws have features that enhance the ability to perform these kinds of tasks, such as clamps that make blade changing fast and simple, top arms that lift out of the way, variable speed motors, tilting tables or heads for making beveled cuts, for inlays & stacked ring type projects. Modern scroll saws and blades really best suited for doing a lot of heavy cutting in thick material. Most of the material I cut on mine is 1/2" thick or less and often 1/4" or less. Occasionally I cut wood up to 1 1/4" thick, but that is the exception. I use only plain end blades, some of which are only 0.010 thick and 0.022" wide. You can get much bigger blades, especially if they are pin-end type, but I don't think a lot of the better scroll saws will even accept them. I know my old DeWalt didn't and my Excalibur doesn't. I think pin end blades are pretty much relegated to being used on lower end saws.
Table mounted jig (or saber) saws can't come close to cutting the kind of detail that a scroll saw can cut. I'm not sure they offer much of an advantage over a good hand held saber saw, but I've never used one. They really are 2 different animals. The saw you have is quite unique. If you like it and it does what you need it to do, I'd hang on to it.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?
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