Help with shimming my table saw top?

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

When I got my PM66 a few years ago, I took it apart and painted the stand.  When I assembled it, I left out the shims that were between the top and the stand because I didn't realize what they were used for.  I learned recently that they're the reason that my mitered cuts were just so *slightly* off from one end of the cut to the other.  Not enough to be detrimental, but off nonetheless, and will probably show up if I try larger miters.

So...I'm searching using Google on how to properly shim the top and am getting nowhere.

Can any of you help me out?  I no longer have the shims on hand, but have no problem cutting up aluminum cans to make them.  I just don't know *how* to use them.

[photobug]

When I got my PM66 a few years ago, I took it apart and painted the stand.  When I assembled it, I left out the shims that were between the top and the stand because I didn't realize what they were used for.  I learned recently that they're the reason that my mitered cuts were just so *slightly* off from one end of the cut to the other.  Not enough to be detrimental, but off nonetheless, and will probably show up if I try larger miters.

So...I'm searching using Google on how to properly shim the top and am getting nowhere.

Can any of you help me out?  I no longer have the shims on hand, but have no problem cutting up aluminum cans to make them.  I just don't know *how* to use them.

I think last month or 2-3 months ago Fine Woodworking did an article on table saw tuning that included this detail.  I have never worrried about this cut as I don't make many mitered cuts on the TS.

You need a way to measure accurately the angle.  I think a magnetic stand was used and a dial gauge or dial indicator.  You mark a blade tooth and set up the dial gauge to read the distance with the marked blade at the back of the saw.  Move the blade to the opposite end and measure the distance there.  Maybe a miter gauge was used also.  Shim the table top so that the blade distance is equal on both ends of the measured field. 

Here is the article, you probably need to be a subscriber to read it.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/2017/11/0...r-tablesaw

[Stwood_]

I used my wixey angle gauge.

[mike4244]

When I got my PM66 a few years ago, I took it apart and painted the stand.  When I assembled it, I left out the shims that were between the top and the stand because I didn't realize what they were used for.  I learned recently that they're the reason that my mitered cuts were just so *slightly* off from one end of the cut to the other.  Not enough to be detrimental, but off nonetheless, and will probably show up if I try larger miters.

So...I'm searching using Google on how to properly shim the top and am getting nowhere.

Can any of you help me out?  I no longer have the shims on hand, but have no problem cutting up aluminum cans to make them.  I just don't know *how* to use them.

I never realized that the table and stand may be shimmed until I read your post. Here is what I think you have to do. Remove the insert and make sure the blade is flat. Run the saw a few seconds and if there is no wobble I would think the blade is flat. Now raise the blade to full height and turn the trunnion to 45°. The blade should be parallel to the miter slot from the front to back of the blade. If not , loosen the fasteners at the rear of the table and try shimming one side or possibly both if needed. When the blade is parallel ,  check the blade at 90°. 
When done snug up the fasteners ,checking to make sure nothing moves. Then tighten and check again.
The insert should not hit the blade now and try a miter. Aluminum cans ,foil paper etc can be used for shims.
I hope this info is correct, I would try to talk to a Powermatic tech if possible.

mike