Grizzly G0513X2 Bandsaw

[barryvabeach]

To start, you will probably want 2 blades - one for general purposes, like ripping stock  ( some don't have a TS, and use a BS because there is no kickback danger with a BS ) and one for resaw.   I like staying around 1/2 " in width,  though if you want to cut curves, you will want something narrower, which will be a total of 3.   While a wider will arguably produce a better cut,  the wider blade will need a lot more tension than the narrower blade, and that may be tough to generate and from what I have read,  1/2 " does pretty well for resaw, even on a big saw.  The next issue is # teeth.  If you want to go general ripping on 3/4 stock,  anywhere in the 6 to 10 tpi would work.  For resaw, the fewer the better -  2 or 3 tpi are common.  I will probably go against what I said earlier about having an extra on hand, but while you are starting out, I would try just one of each .  You will figure out fairly soon whether you think the blade lasts a while, and whether you are doing more resaw or ripping.  Once one starts to dull, order a new one, of a different brand or type ( bimetal v. carbon steel v. carbide tipped ) and keep the old one as a back up to use if the new one breaks.

[AgGEM]

Thank you! I do intend on eventually gravitating towards higher priced blades, but for now I have limits. At least this way once I get to that point, I'll certainly develop an appreciation for the value of a better saw blade by then once I get there-

Not to add confusion but I don't think woodcraftbands has been mentioned.
http://www.woodcraftbands.com/
They used to get good reviews here and it has been a while since I last ordered from them.
Price / service / quality were all good.
Ag

[SpiderDave]

To start, you will probably want 2 blades - one for general purposes, like ripping stock  ( some don't have a TS, and use a BS because there is no kickback danger with a BS ) and one for resaw.   I like staying around 1/2 " in width,  though if you want to cut curves, you will want something narrower, which will be a total of 3.   While a wider will arguably produce a better cut,  the wider blade will need a lot more tension than the narrower blade, and that may be tough to generate and from what I have read,  1/2 " does pretty well for resaw, even on a big saw.  The next issue is # teeth.  If you want to go general ripping on 3/4 stock,  anywhere in the 6 to 10 tpi would work.  For resaw, the fewer the better -  2 or 3 tpi are common.  I will probably go against what I said earlier about having an extra on hand, but while you are starting out, I would try just one of each .  You will figure out fairly soon whether you think the blade lasts a while, and whether you are doing more resaw or ripping.  Once one starts to dull, order a new one, of a different brand or type ( bimetal v. carbon steel v. carbide tipped ) and keep the old one as a back up to use if the new one breaks.

Well said. Not to leave anyone else out either. It's ALL been valuable & greatly appreciated info & advice. But, for some reason that helped it kinda come full circle. I guess once you hear something enough times from different perspectives it finally clicks in. That's kind of what it takes for me sometimes the way my head works. 

I am curious what you meant by ' the wider blade will need a lot more tension than the narrower blade, and that may be tough to generate and from what I have read'.  Is that from what you saw of the specs or generally so to say the taller machines (in this price range & build) have a harder time with tension and frame flexing to get what's needed for wider blades? Might be a chance here for me to learn something important there about these 'machines' and how blades react. I think it would help dial it in better if I understood the machine's limitations?) I do understand blade tension for the most part. More about the machine and what you read that gave you insight.

On that note: You mentioned earlier on, that the 1" blade was a bit wide for your taste in your 513?  (see, I do pay attention) I have read a couple threads here after suggested I search the site more - I did and will keep on it. Blade tension came up a few times in my search for blade recommendations. And the 'Bandsaw Handbook' etc. Would you think it best for me to start off with say 1/2' - 3/4" maximum, to learn the machine first?

[SpiderDave]

Not to add confusion but I don't think woodcraftbands has been mentioned.
http://www.woodcraftbands.com/
They used to get good reviews here and it has been a while since I last ordered from them.
Price / service / quality were all good.
Ag

These prices surprised me actually. Cheaper than I expected. Thanks! Getting real close on my blade list now - thanks to everyone's help. Will be ordering the machine here in about an hour. Awww, is it just me or is there somehtin' about the smell of a freshly unwrapped tool that makes yuh just a little giddy?

[AgGEM]

These prices surprised me actually. Cheaper than I expected. Thanks!

Note that the website say's prices are subject to change.
I would expect to pay more than you see.
You have to call them and ask.
Ag

[SpiderDave]

Thats the saw where the coupon code Walker10 works for 10% off.  I havent used the saw; this vid on YT (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4LblDyJwcg&t=575s) shows that the guy likes his (of course grizzly gave him his saw for free so take his review with a grain salt....) Looks like good bandsaw IMHO; be hard pressed to  find a better value.

Great video, no comparison there on blade changes. I tried the code online, it didn't take. Even tried the code I had from Tool Guide magazine and it didn't take either. Is there a trick I'm missing by chance?

[F. E. B. III]

Great video, no comparison there on blade changes. I tried the code online, it didn't take. Even tried the code I had from Tool Guide magazine and it didn't take either. Is there a trick I'm missing by chance?

The code does work.  I just tried it.  It seems like it isnt taking but it drops the price from 1495 to 1255.  Also look bottom right after youmprocess the code; the code is now there under the words "coupon code"; you have to hit the remove button to remove it.

It does work for the Bandsaw in that vid - http://www.grizzly.com/products/17-2-HP-...rizzly.com

Code - Walker10

Price drop From - $1495

To - $1255

[SpiderDave]

The code does work.  I just tried it.  It seems like it isnt taking but it drops the price from 1495 to 1255.  Also look bottom right after youmprocess the code; the code is now there under the words "coupon code"; you have to hit the remove button to remove it.

It does work for the Bandsaw in that vid - http://www.grizzly.com/products/17-2-HP-...rizzly.com

Code - Walker10

Price drop From - $1495

To - $1255

OKay, I didnt notice the difference. My fault! I just noticed that yours is a Go513X2'BF' mines just a Go513x2 with no BF. That's the one I wanted beforehand actually with foot brake and few safety features I think? Man, if this works it gona be such a blessing! Thanks for responding so quickly. Will let you know how it turns out. Heading back to Grizzly site to check this out!!

[barryvabeach]

Dave

 
Saw blade width and changing blades.   On the Grizzly, the slot in the table is perpendicular to the blade, which means that I start to put on the blade by standing to the side of the saw furthest from the spine of the BS, and the blade is in a circle where the teeth are pointing towards me - again away from the spine or back of the saw.   As I move the blade in the slot towards the cutout, I start to rotate the part of the blade that is to my left ( and will eventually go into the spine )  90 degrees clockwise - which causes the part that is closest to the cutout in the table to start to turn.  That is where things get a little tricky because I am trying to get the blade to rotate to the side and change its orientation so the teeth will face the front of the table, and get the rest of the blade into the body of the saw - and eventually get it in place in between the blade guides top and bottom as well.   The narrower the blade, the easier for me to do that dance.  Even when I opened the guides and set them all the way back, I found a wider blade would get caught somewhere, and I was always afraid I would kink the blade, or bend a tooth.  To me, it is much easier with a 3/4 inch to 1/2 inch blade to get it on and off without hitting things.  

Width of blade and tension.    While there is a lot of discussion, and various points of view, about tension for BS blades, there is general agreement that if the blade is not given enough, the cut will suffer.  When the tension is way too low, you will actually get a barrel cut.  ( The disagreement is what is enough tension and can it be measured accurately ,  most agree that the tension chart on the BS is a best a rough guide )   As square inches ( width and thickness of blade) increases, so does the force required to apply that tension.  http://www.finewoodworking.com/2012/11/0...de-tension   I haven't checked his math, but the article gives this example   For example, it takes approximately 200 lb. of force pulling on a 1/4-in.-wide by 0.025-in.-thick blade to create 25,000 psi of tension. Conversely, a 3/4-in.-wide by 0.032-in.-thick blade will require approximately 800 lb. of force to create the same 25,000 psi of tension.

By design, a BS has a spine end and an open end, and as you increase the tension on the blade, the open end of the BS is forced downward towards the table.  The more rigid the frame, the more it can resist the bending force, and so there are some that suggest that wider blades are better for very heavy duty machines, and home BS should try to use narrower blades, that they are better suited to be able to handle the pressure required to tension the blade.   

Hope this answered your questions.

[SpiderDave]

The code does work.  I just tried it.  It seems like it isnt taking but it drops the price from 1495 to 1255.  Also look bottom right after youmprocess the code; the code is now there under the words "coupon code"; you have to hit the remove button to remove it.

It does work for the Bandsaw in that vid - http://www.grizzly.com/products/17-2-HP-...rizzly.com

Code - Walker10

Price drop From - $1495

To - $1255

Right now you are my hero! That's what it was. The G0513X2BF instead of the G0513X2, which is what I originally wanted but couldn't afford blades if I did. It went through and has been ordered! Woohoo! Thank you so much!! I owe yuh one.

I was on phone with Grizzly for maybe 20 plus mins. They were frustrated with me, but trying hard and patient. Walker10 code didn't exist and nobody ever heard of it. And said mine was from summer of 2017 even though I just bought the Feb 2018 Tool Guide Issue on the 16th of this month for the coupon. I have to say they were really nice about it, for the record so was I. ha! I was trying to make the gal laugh and know that it wasn't the end of the world, but she was taking it pretty serious & even handing me over to management - also nice. I could tell there was some frustration & concern. Ordering the wrong saw was throwing them off on the walker code - totally my own fault for not noticing. Getting screen blindness from all the reading I've been doing. And the other code they said it's possible that Tool Guide is printing an expired coupon and they'll have to speak with them on it. All I know is my saw's coming soon. Thanks again for your unexpectedly and timely response, That's what made it all work out. Might not have even noticed it if not for that.  Thank You!!