Work Bench Tabletops - Size - Flat, Dogs, and/or T-tracks?
#8
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Hi All - well, I'm cleaning up my basement workshop, giving some tools to H for H, and adding/revising my mobile carts - as expected, taking longer than expected w/ many organizational considerations - 
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Question on workbenches & tabletops - I have 2 narrow work benches w/ dog holes & vises which are fine - have 2 others made from a hollow core old door cut in half - one is used as a finishing area, while the other sits on 2 sawhorses w/ some lower storage - this tabletop is flat and measures 33" x 36", a nice size for me to put together my projects but offers little in clamping versatility.

SO, I've been searching for an alternate tabletop - so the options are: 1) Buy or make one; and 2) Flat, holes, and/or T-tracks - viewed the video below by David Stanton who made a great 'Festool-type' table but just not sure that I want to drill all of those dog holes and whether I could do it as accurately?  So, found some commercial options of all of these types - below are two composite pics w/ text details - I really do not want to invest in the Festool MF table (well over $1000 when add-ons are purchased) - the Rockler is a consideration but again adding accessories could easily double the price - I kind of like the flat option w/ drawers, i.e. could add a T-track or two, even some dog holes, plus a hinged side piece to add to the size of the table.

Would appreciate any comments from those who have faced similar considerations and found good solutions - thanks.  Dave
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Piedmont North Carolina
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#9
(02-28-2018, 07:05 PM)giradman Wrote: SO, I've been searching for an alternate tabletop - so the options are: 1) Buy or make one; and 2) Flat, holes, and/or T-tracks - viewed the video below by David Stanton who made a great 'Festool-type' table but just not sure that I want to drill all of those dog holes and whether I could do it as accurately?  

Hi Dave,

I asked the exact same question a while back.  I have finished my Paulk Bench already, but have yet to add the grooves, holes or whatever.

Check out my thread to see what people suggested.

https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.php?tid=7336971

I am going to work on the bench tonight I will post an update then.  My goal was to come up with a hybrid design using dog holes and T-track.  Right now it is just a solid top.
A carpenter's house is never done.
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#10
(02-28-2018, 08:32 PM)photobug Wrote: Hi Dave,

I asked the exact same question a while back.  I have finished my Paulk Bench already, but have yet to add the grooves, holes or whatever.

Check out my thread to see what people suggested.

https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.php?tid=7336971

I am going to work on the bench tonight I will post an update then.  My goal was to come up with a hybrid design using dog holes and T-track.  Right now it is just a solid top.

Thanks Photobug for the link - amazed that I missed your thread which I just read through - seems like there are many varied opinions - my table now is mainly used for gluing up projects - just would be nice to have some 'hold-downs' (whether dogs or T-track) to help w/ the process - I have a Sjöbergs table w/ plenty of 3/4" dogs and other clamps - do not have as many T-track clamps (for a Woodpecker's drill press table).  So many choices to consider - Dave
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Piedmont North Carolina
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#11
(02-28-2018, 09:59 PM)giradman Wrote: Thanks Photobug for the link - amazed that I missed your thread which I just read through - seems like there are many varied opinions - my table now is mainly used for gluing up projects - just would be nice to have some 'hold-downs' (whether dogs or T-track) to help w/ the process - I have a Sjöbergs table w/ plenty of 3/4" dogs and other clamps - do not have as many T-track clamps (for a Woodpecker's drill press table).  So many choices to consider - Dave
Smile

As said I will update my thread as my table progresses.  I am leaving the option to put all of the above in my table.  The problem I am having is drilling accurate holes with an accurate alignment. I have laid out a jig that will get the spacing right but not able to get my exact dog hole sizing.  I only made one attempt so far, but now have a set of guide bushings to try to dial in the dog diameter.  I feel to really do it right i need a PARF dog hole kit at $200.

The jig I have made is based on a 4" span but the PARF jig has a 96mm span, which equals 3.77".  My plan is to use a combination of T-track and dovetail tracks on a 96mm spread.  If I find the tracks lacking I can add dog holes later.  I also picked up a Kreg Clamp I am trying to factor into the layout.  Pictures to follow.
A carpenter's house is never done.
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#12
Benchtops always vary depending on the intended use of the bench. It seems that you're looking for more of a layout / setup / assembly table.

If i was in your situation, I think I would be wearing out my phone to find a local cabinet shop that would be willing to put a double layer of MDF on their CNC machine. They could punch all your dog holes in a perfect grid pattern and likely very close to size. While it was on the table I'd probably have them plow some dadoes in it for me to add some T-tracks later (the dadoes wouldn't take an extra 5 minutes). And then I'd have them take the cutter all the way around the perimeter of the sheet to trim the sides perfectly square to the grid.

If they had to do each sheet ( top & bottom ) separately, it wouldn't be a deal breaker, they could be joined later. But it would be a little better if they were both cut after they were glued together.
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#13
(03-01-2018, 01:01 PM)DieselDennis Wrote: Benchtops always vary depending on the intended use of the bench.  It seems that you're looking for more of a layout / setup / assembly table.

If i was in your situation, I think I would be wearing out my phone to find a local cabinet shop that would be willing to put a double layer of MDF on their CNC machine.  They could punch all your dog holes in a perfect grid pattern and likely very close to size.  While it was on the table I'd probably have them plow some dadoes in it for me to add some T-tracks later (the dadoes wouldn't take an extra 5 minutes).  And then I'd have them take the cutter all the way around the perimeter of the sheet to trim the sides perfectly square to the grid.  

If they had to do each sheet ( top & bottom ) separately, it wouldn't be a deal breaker, they could be joined later.  But it would be a little better if they were both cut after they were glued together.

Well, I've seen CNC machines in action on a number of wood working shows - quite impressive and ACCURATE!  The table you describe is pretty much like the one built by David Stanton in the video link in my first post (also shown below) - I bought the plans but cannot imagine getting all of those dog holes lined up correctly - I've lived w/ a flat glue-up/assembly top for ages and have a bunch of clamps and right-angle jigs that usually do the job for me - just in the process of re-organzing the shop and clearing up some room.  Thanks for the comments.  Dave
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Piedmont North Carolina
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#14
If you want to drill a bunch of evenly spaced holes in your table top, could you use a piece of peg board as a template? That would give you the spacing, you just have to decide which holes to use.
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