Looking to make a jig.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Not knowing where to put this I thought I would try here and if moderators need to move then that is OK.

I have a right tilt tablesaw and I am looking to make a sled to be able to cut staves accurately and repeatably They will probably be around 12" long. But they will be thin. Looking to probably make 6 to 8 staves per 1" diameter. So staves form a complete rod with a diameter of about 1" to 1-1/2" Would love to see others sleds if you have something like this. I do not want to have to set up a fence on the opposite side of the blade and keep moving it. With a sled I can make repeated cuts with maybe a stop block to set distance. Hope this makes sense. I can answer any questions if they come up. Thanks in advance.

[EricU]

I'm visualizing a sled with a surface that holds the piece at the correct angle.  There is some temptation to build a flat sled and tilt the blade, but that seems to me like you would have to futz with it every time you use it instead of just when you are building the sled.

seems like the problem with that sled is clamping.  And it also seems like you need two sleds, one for the first cut and another for the second cut. Or a stop that attaches somehow for the second operation

I'm thinking some Destaco type 4 bar toggle clamps. Maybe with sacrificial clamping feet so the metal part doesn't overhang the blade. There are small auto-adjust clamps that seem like they might make things easier.

[Splinter Puller]

I'm visualizing a sled with a surface that holds the piece at the correct angle.  There is some temptation to build a flat sled and tilt the blade, but that seems to me like you would have to futz with it every time you use it instead of just when you are building the sled.

seems like the problem with that sled is clamping.  And it also seems like you need two sleds, one for the first cut and another for the second cut. Or a stop that attaches somehow for the second operation

I'm thinking some Destaco type 4 bar toggle clamps. Maybe with sacrificial clamping feet so the metal part doesn't overhang the blade. There are small auto-adjust clamps that seem like they might make things easier.

With the pieces being so small and the need for a sacrificial clamping device if your volumn is high I would consider some sort of vacuum holding fixture.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I like the ideas. keep them coming. The staves need to be finished so that I can just glue together and then turn on lathe to correct diameter I would need.

[jteneyck]

My first thought is to cut them off a much wider piece.  A sled would be used, but a wide piece of stock at whatever thickness is needed would be clamped on to it.  Cut off a stave, index the stock forward, repeat until the board is too narrow to clamp.  

John

[photobug]

Why not a sub-sled?  

My cross cut sled has a removable insert to allow for dados and and possibly beveled cuts, not sure as I had not used it yet except with my normal blade.

If your sled has the ability to cut at a bevel and you have a t-track on it to the right of the blade, you could have a sub-sled base that can be moved along the t-track to move a sub-surface along until you get the dimensions you want for the staves.  Photo of my sled for reference.

I'm curious is what are you going to do with a 1" diameter hollow rod?

[photobug]

Here is a photo of my sled for reference to get an idea of how I would use this sled as a base to make a jig for your needs.

[EricU]

With the pieces being so small and the need for a sacrificial clamping device if your volumn is high I would consider some sort of vacuum holding fixture.

I thought of using vacuum, but I'm not sure I would want an umbilical cord as part of a tablesaw setup.  Would have to be really careful that it couldn't snag. Vacuum works a lot better on stationary workpieces.

[Alan S]

So if I understand what you want, you need to cut pieces that are 12" long, and whose cross sections are triangles with two glueable cut faces and one prefinished face.  I would cut these from a flat board by setting the blade tilt to half the internal angle you want (30 degrees for 6 parts, 22.5 degrees for 8) and ripping the parts off, flipping the stock over after each cut.  I would cut so the triangle cut loose from the edge is stable on the sled, and does not fall down, meaning the main part of the board is above, and the cut off part below the tilt of the blade (right on a right tilt saw.)  I would not guide the stock against a fence to the right of the blade.  I would use a tablesaw sled and a stop block to position the stock.  You may need a stop block at both the leading and trailing end of the stock, so as to align the stock accurately as you cut your square reference shorter.  If you really want the outside of your rod prefinished, you would need to finish both faces of the original board because alternating pieces are cut from opposite faces this way.

I think with a sled and good control of the large piece, that the small piece you cut does not need to be clamped.  It will be under the blade, lying flat on the finished face and stably positioned against the back fence of the sled.  If you are concerned about it moving into the blade, you could slide the sled fully past the blade and remove the part before sliding the sled back for the next cut.  If you really want to solidly lock down both parts, you could make them overlong and use a pinner to attach the ends to the sled, prying each off for the next cut, and then trimming the ends.

Here's a quick sketch showing what I mean:

   

If you use thinner stock, the staves would not have the point, and would assemble to a hollow tube.

[mike4244]

I like the ideas. keep them coming. The staves need to be finished so that I can just glue together and then turn on lathe to correct diameter I would need.

Is their a reason that you need staves? Small diameter like you want can be turned from the solid. If you need a center hole , how about gluing up 4 mitered pieces and then turn them round. 
mike