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Do you really need to make your own with staves or can you just purchase a 1" or 1-1/2" diameter solid rod and use a hand plane or some other jig to make the sides flat? If weight is an issue, then you might be able to take a larger diameter rod, slice it in half, then route some bulk out of the middle, flatten the sides, and then glue it back up again.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
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I believe he's making a turning blank with different species of wood to make a pattern. So it would be tricky to buy
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(03-14-2018, 12:20 PM)photobug Wrote: Why not a sub-sled?
My cross cut sled has a removable insert to allow for dados and and possibly beveled cuts, not sure as I had not used it yet except with my normal blade.
If your sled has the ability to cut at a bevel and you have a t-track on it to the right of the blade, you could have a sub-sled base that can be moved along the t-track to move a sub-surface along until you get the dimensions you want for the staves. Photo of my sled for reference.
I'm curious is what are you going to do with a 1" diameter hollow rod?
Yes to the question do I really need staves. I am using different woods with different designs within those woods. I think Alan has the answer if I followed all he said. I need to reread his post. I do not need the outface to be finished because more than likely I will need to turn it down to final dimensions. Triangle is probably a better term than staves because that is what they will look like so Alan maybe onto what I want. I like the stop block for consistency. I do not want to run against a fence especially on the left side of the blade. not comfortable making cuts like that. That is why I say a sled where I make runners in the miter slots. Made many sleds like this before but the one here has me a bit stumped because of the piece getting trapped under the blade and possibly getting kicked back or just not being cut straight. I was thinking of adding a vacuum hose mounted some how to the waste side to pull the thin triangle away from the blade as it gets cut. I made a sled and now need to figure out the fixtures to add to aide in this. Still thinking this one over. Thanks everyone.
John T.
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I understand now why you need staves. You could glue up straight flat pieces without a bevel to form a square and turn that to round. Might give you the look you want.
mike
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(03-15-2018, 04:39 AM)mike4244 Wrote: I understand now why you need staves. You could glue up straight flat pieces without a bevel to form a square and turn that to round. Might give you the look you want.
mike
The round rod would be simplier. 8 sided is tough to do flat. Will get it. Thanks.
John T.
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03-15-2018, 10:59 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-15-2018, 11:29 PM by Bob10.)
I was thinking about this while cutting stuff up this afternoon. I think it has been determined you need a larger piece to keep it safe yet could you rabbet a thicker piece so the part in the clamps is thick enough not to be fragile and not require cutting a big piece thin for just the small bit you need.
Make the first cut so you get the angle you need with the void facing the table or do the rabbet after the first cut and the finish cut with the stave on the table.
You ever consider just cutting it partially through so it stays attached and you could split it off and clean up the edge? I got the idea from this guy
He has some good ideas, make you think darn that's pretty good
https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.ph...pid7601989
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I would use most of Alan’s ideas and a sled like Bug’s.
However, I would include a carrier which presents the wood to the blade at the angle you want to produce.
I have one I use for boxes (45-degree).
Next time I’m at the shop, I’ll get a picture for you.
Gary
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