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I tend to do template routing, thus I have many straight bits...well, the majority of them are dull. Can they be professionally sharpened? Is it worth it? I tried to 'tune' them up myself, didn't accomplish anything. So, can bits be sharpened? Worth it? Who do I send them to? If they are burned/ are they toast?
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Lots of choices:
https://www.google.com/search?q=carbide+...e&ie=UTF-8
Freud lists approved sources for sharpening bits.
Holbren (often mentioned within these forums) offers this service too:
https://www.holbren.com/sharpening-services
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They can, and they work well after sharpening. However, even fluted bits lose a very slight amount in OD once sharpened...so for template routing they may not do exactly what you want. It's worth trying...but with spiral bits you can lose a lot on the OD...that's the dimension that gets sharpened on them. 2 outfits I've used for router bits are Bull Sharpening and Dynamic Saw. In both cases the work was excellent.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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What Fred said, you lose diameter so if the cutter matches up to a bearing then not any more. Might not be enough to care though.
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(03-20-2018, 10:24 AM)AlanS Wrote: I tend to do template routing, thus I have many straight bits...well, the majority of them are dull. Can they be professionally sharpened? Is it worth it? I tried to 'tune' them up myself, didn't accomplish anything. So, can bits be sharpened? Worth it? Who do I send them to? If they are burned/ are they toast?
Dynamic Saw in Buffalo, NY sharpens regular router bits for $4 each.
John
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At work we send out our bits to be sharpened and just input the new size into the software
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This does not answer your OP, but might help.
Carbide tipped bits rarely actually dull through use. They tend to get gummed up which can be cleaned.
Heat is the real Carbide killer. Carbide is not a solid metal like steel. It is actually Carbide particles embedded in tungsten. When over heated, the tungsten matrix holding the Carbide degrades. This, of course, happens first at the tip, so the bit dulls.
Keeping the bits clean helps a lot. Try to not let the bits pause in contact with the wood, especially in corners, to keep the friction down.
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Good comments Ralph. Like you said, the grains of carbide flake off that's why you hear words like micrograin carbide. The smaller the grain the less edge you lose if a single grain flakes off. Not the only important part about carbide but part of it. A steel cutting will dull normally or the edge will fold over.
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(03-21-2018, 01:43 PM)JTTHECLOCKMAN Wrote: I use the Trend diamond hones and they work well. Watch all their videos.
www.bing.com/videos/search?q=trend+sharpening+card&view=detail&mid=C484B1D499D4E48E0EF3C484B1D499D4E48E0EF3&FORM=VIRE
What John said. I also sharpen my forstner bits as well. One thing I do is only sharpen the inside edges and not the outside and you do not have to press hard on the diamond hones or you will lose the abrasive Yes I did it.
I also do a brief sharpening when I am done every time as well to keep them sharp.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
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