(03-21-2018, 11:15 PM)Troywoodyard Wrote: I'm using hand tools, so the way I would insure my pieces are square to be able to use a marking gauge would be to square a line across an 18" panel ... maybe I could shoot the ends of the 2 panel pieces to exact length and glue up and hope to get that precise, and then use the marking gauge? I wonder if that or the whole straightedge on a square method would be more accurate?
I would use the strait edge on the square method after hearing your explain your situation better...
Don't consider getting a square edge from your glueup. Also know that when we say "square edge" we are not just saying the edge of the board is a strait line... but that it is 90degrees to the sides of the board as well.
Also, after glueup, I would use the square, with a strait edge across it to mark a knife wall all around the board, and that is how I would square it. Mark it all around, cross cut it with a saw, and plane down to knife wall. Could be shooting board if it fits, or just vertical in the vise careful not to plane through the end of the board and tearout.
(03-21-2018, 08:07 PM)DaveR1 Wrote: Since Mr. Rodel specified the tenons on the panels at 17 in. wide, it would make more sense to make the mortise 17-1/4 or 17-3/8 in. long depending upon where the bed will live and the sort of seasonal dimension changes one could expect.
Haven't seen Mr. Rodel; don't know where a 17 inch wide tenon comes from. I was responding to Mr. Young's query about a 16 inch wide tenon.
(03-21-2018, 07:51 PM)Jim Waldron Wrote: Offhand, I'd suggest a 16-3/4 inch mortise to allow for expansion. Since the tenons are haunched, the "extra" mortise length won't show. Pretty usual practice.
Yep but a quick look at the plan on the FWW page and I don't see such additional room specified. Don't remember now if the tenons are cut back for a fully shouldered tenon or not. A haunched tenon is a bit different and is used to FILL a groove or add just a smidgeon more anti-twist resistance.
Anyway, 16" seems a bit wide of a tenon to glue in all the way across. Glue dab in the middle couple of inches so it doesn't rattle and get on with life.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
(03-23-2018, 10:06 AM)Rob Young Wrote: Yep but a quick look at the plan on the FWW page and I don't see such additional room specified. Don't remember now if the tenons are cut back for a fully shouldered tenon or not. A haunched tenon is a bit different and is used to FILL a groove or add just a smidgeon more anti-twist resistance.
Anyway, 16" seems a bit wide of a tenon to glue in all the way across. Glue dab in the middle couple of inches so it doesn't rattle and get on with life.
You're right. Sometimes I go too fast for my own good. Both on the keyboard and in the shop, too. Always a bad idea.
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Since the tenons are haunched, the "extra" mortise length won't show. Pretty usual practice.