(03-23-2018, 10:07 AM)Willyou Wrote: jteneyck and I are suggesting that you use the Bondo as only a leveler and then use the stick-on UHMW as a wearing surface. This is a fairly easy and effective solution.
Thanks for the followup, that makes much more sense. I am friends with an owner of an antique store, and am familiar with the values of "brown" furniture as they call it, so I wouldn't say it is a valuable antique, but it is pretty well built.
Willyou and jteneyck, thanks, I did the bondo, then a very thin umhw , I went with TapeCase 423-3 - and bought a 36 yard roll at 3/4 wide, so it would be slightly wider than the drawer runners. If I were buying more, I would have gotten a thicker tape since the 423-3 is only 3 mils thick. I am sure it will hold up, but it is not much thicker than adhesive tape. I had some umhw tape that was much thicker- closer to 1/8 thick, and was afraid that would be too high for the drawers to fit.
BTW, dealing with the bondo was a bit of a pain, it sets up pretty quick, so it was a bit gloppy in places, so I did a fair amount of hitting it with files and rasps to get it smooth. Doing it in wood would have been much more time consuming.
(03-31-2018, 04:15 PM)barryvabeach Wrote: Willyou and jteneyck, thanks, I did the bondo, then a very thin umhw , I went with TapeCase 423-3 - and bought a 36 yard roll at 3/4 wide, so it would be slightly wider than the drawer runners. If I were buying more, I would have gotten a thicker tape since the 423-3 is only 3 mils thick. I am sure it will hold up, but it is not much thicker than adhesive tape. I had some umhw tape that was much thicker- closer to 1/8 thick, and was afraid that would be too high for the drawers to fit.
BTW, dealing with the bondo was a bit of a pain, it sets up pretty quick, so it was a bit gloppy in places, so I did a fair amount of hitting it with files and rasps to get it smooth. Doing it in wood would have been much more time consuming.
Glad it worked out for you Barry. 3 mil thick UHMW tape will be fine for a really long time as long as no grit gets in the bottom of the drawer sides.
Barry, Nice job. It should work well for many years. I wish that I had had the foresight to tell you that you can use a microplane (cheese grater style) on the Bondo before it completely sets up. For the future, there is a point before it gets really hard that you can shave it down easily to rough shape and then sand it smooth after it hardens completely. You are correct, you have to work rapidly.
Willyou, thanks, I used a micro plane, a wood rasp, and a body filler rasp, and it still took some fiddling to get it even. I can't imagine how long it would have taken using my original idea of planing out the ruts, then gluing in strips of wood, then planing them flat. BTW, if any one else finds this thread, I did like the tapecase tape, because I got a roll that is 36 yards long for just over $20, that turned out to be handy because for a few drawers, I thought I had scraped the bondo down enough, but the drawer stuck, so I just peeled off that tape and scraped some more, then tried another piece of tape.
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