Would you rip it?

[Tapper]

Don't you have to either rip, or join the edges again after flattening ?  Seems like the edges would no longer be 90 degrees to the face unless you flip the sections over then the birds eye would not match..   Roly

Assumption was that the OP had a jointer. As we all know, chances are very small of getting a seamless glue-up unless the edges are jointed square and straight. Also assumes that the four pieces were face jointed and planed flat before edge jointing.

Doug

[Bergie]

Assumption was that the OP had a jointer. As we all know, chances are very small of getting a seamless glue-up unless the edges are jointed square and straight. Also assumes that the four pieces were face jointed and planed flat before edge jointing.

Doug

Correct. A jointer will come into play during whatever process I decide to go with. Step one is to get rid of the warp, then move to the "normal" milling process.

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

I know it's not exactly what you were looking for, but I'd approach it as John suggested: Cut it into veneer and use it over a lesser substrate.

[FrankAtl]

I know it's not exactly what you were looking for, but I'd approach it as John suggested:  Cut it into veneer and use it over a lesser substrate.

If it's really nice birdseye then I third that idea.

[cputnam]

A further mind bend: Live with the warped bottom and adjust the base design/dimensions to accommodate.

[TGW]

You don't need a jointer to face and edge joint those boards. A scrub plane and a jack or jointer plane will also do the job.

I am fortunate to have a 24" jointer/planer theese days but before I could afford such machinery I handplaned quite a bit. If I could others can.